Day 14: Trekkin’ from Trier (to Dresden)


Photos above showing steep terrain of Mosel Valley taken from inside of train (white spots are reflections)

A full day of trains and transfers occupied us initially from Trier train station through the beautiful, vineyard-laden Mosel Valley. The terroir is obviously full of character and struggles, with rows of vines carefully oriented to capture the sun. It was incomprehensible how the very steep rows prevented erosion between the vines; some plants clung vicariously in lone stems at the tip of ancient stone walls and look very tired and agonized. We tried a number of Rieslings and White Burgundies at the Olewig Wine Festival and attested to the very delicious and flavorful variations produced in this area. We progressed from Koblenz to Mainz, then Leipzig, then to our final destination in Dresden at the end of a trainful day.

We ended up at my favorite accommodations at the Aparthotel Neumarkt, a stone’s throw from the famous Frauenkirche Church that was bombed in WWII and completely rebuilt with help from the British. The apartment is fully equipped and is very reasonable. My pick and recommendation for anyone coming to Dresden for a visit.

Photos below show Aparthotel Living, Kitchen, and Separate Dining areas

 

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Day 13: Trier, Germany’s Oldest City

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Trier’s history is one of the most fascinating stories in Europe. Beginning with the rule of Julius Caesar in 50 BC when he ordered Roman walls to be erected to protect its soldiers and citizens to destruction in World War II, it transcended the presence of Constantine, who held court in the reception hall in 300 AD; the monk who lived in medieval times in the Porte Negra; the rape, pillage and trading of the Vikings; and the arrival of Napoleon.

The major buildings include the Porte Negra, the only remaining Roman wall today; the Basilica, where it served as a pilgrimage church during the Crusades; and the Reception Hall where Constantine met his guests.

Photos from top:

1. Map of Trier, with the Moselle River inning through it;
2. The Basilica
3. The Konigstherme

Day 11: Reconstruction of Reims

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The magnificent Reims Cathedral is still under construction and funds continue to be raised to complete the portions that were destroyed in WW 1. The Rockefellers were big donors in the past.

Having just visited Westminster Abbey and the exterior of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris on this trip, I can appreciate the scale and proportion of this Gothic cathedral.  The community of Reims must have been extremely proud and passionate about this monument. It is no wonder that any destruction of such an iconic value to a community is devastating and unrecoverable unless it is rebuilt in its entirety.

Being a champagne producing  area certainly fueled the economy of Reims and therefore its ability to fund such an elaborate structure. Walking through town, I noticed many fine patrician buildings dating from 1889 and earlier.

We did take a champagne tour at Casanova-Martell. Champagne is made from three grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunière. The juice provides the sugar and the skin provides the yeast. We had a delicious tasting of three champagnes.

Photos, from top:

1. The exterior of Reims cathedral, still under construction.

2. The Nave of the cathedral

3.  The vaulted ceiling, of which portions were bombed in 1914-1918

4. The Rose Window at the South end

5. The Marc Chagall windows at the apse

Day 9: Musee du Monde Arabe (Paris)

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This is one of the few places in the Western World where I have seen a museum devoted to the Arab World. Despite there being limited English text, the museum is worth visiting due to reminders that math and science are largely attributed to Arab inventions and discoveries.

Treasured silk was traded from Asia used to convert into garments and fabrics. The beautiful draped clothing takes advantage of the light that casts iridescent hues, and the geometric patterns found in many carpets and tapestries are reflective of the mathematical mind that developed in the Arab World. Other decorative patterns come from foliage and nature and often are in symmetrical, orderly arrangements.

One of my pursuits for this trip is to connect the dots between Western and Eastern cultures. The Arab World as well as Persia played a huge part in bridging this gap through trade and education.

Photos, clockwise:

1. Detail of aperture on the facade of the museum.  Apertures are purported to adjust to the exterior light conditions but did not appear to have any consistency..

2. Intricate  woven garment

3. Chest with geometric and foliate patterns

4.  Carpet with geometric patterns

Day 8: Nous Sommes Arrives! (Paris)

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Are we in Foodie Heaven or what?!?

We are in good hands with Aziza pastry chef and daughter Melissa, who joined us in Paris after her stint in Ghent. She selected the shops and restaurants and got us to some of the best that Paris has to offer.

Photos from top down:

1. and 2. Counter shots of Patisserie near Septime
3. and 4. Two plates from Lunch at Septime–sublime!
5. and 6. First and Second Courses of Tasting Menu at Roseval, Paris

Day 6: London Town 2

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Photos, top down:

1. Bench side entertainment, St Paul’s Cathedral
2. London skyline along the Thames (from the Tower of London) featuring the “Shard” pyramid, or the Transamerica liftoff so London can be more like San Francisco.
3. St. Paul’s Cathedral, the only church in which its architect, Christopher Wren, was buried; also the only architect who was famous enough to be publicly buried?

Day 5: London Town 1

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Oh Yikes. Headed towards Covent Garden from Cartwright Gardens, where our very teeny studio “apartment” was located. You can barely fit two sardines in a can better than here, where the chairs have to be stored in the closet or you aren’t able to maneuver inside the room. This place has outclassed the Pod in New York by being meaner in proportions and square foot takeoffs. Still, all the amenities of a fully furnished “catered apartment” (as they call them on this side of the Atlantic) included dishes, pots and pans, and above all, Internet access.

I pointed out my old haunts, including the gorgeous Council flat in Gordon Mansions on Torrington Place. I subleased a bedsit there in the summer of 1975 for £9 a week from a student at the Architectural Association. Aside from the aura, living in Bloomsbury definitely had its advantages of location and walking distance to everything.

We made a stop in Soho Chinatown, where I rang the doorbell of a chartered accountant’s office. I thought the  owners might recall Antonio Kwan and Bosco Chan, the two accountants who worked there  45 years ago and hired me to be their assistant. Despite my fumbling over the crank calculator using £ and Sterling,  I mastered the abacus with their help.

Tony and Bosco did the accounts for the Chinese restaurants so we called on clients around lunchtime for obvious reasons. I saved the £1 lunch vouchers I was given to buy cheesecake for dinner!  Unfortunately, my aspiration of working in a Chinese restaurant was never fulfilled. This was the closest I was ever going to get to personally working in the food industry!

We watched rivers of tourists from our window seats at dinner. The economy is being well replenished by international tourist consumption here. However, coming from New York, I couldn’t help but feel the depressing shabbiness of London’s buildings.

Still, the people are the ones who reflect the vibrancy of the city. We were reassured in Ladbroke the following night. Not only was the Turkish food at Fez Mangal fresh and tasty, but  the ambiance consisted of a very healthy mix of all ethnic cultures, economic backgrounds, and lifestyles.

Photos, from top down:

1. Two Independent Parties at Fez Mangal enjoying the food
2. Fez Mangal Mixed Grill and Salad
3. Throngs of Tourists at Oxford Circus from the top front window of a newly minted No. 11 double decker bus–the cheapest way to see London’s sights.

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