The magnificent Reims Cathedral is still under construction and funds continue to be raised to complete the portions that were destroyed in WW 1. The Rockefellers were big donors in the past.
Having just visited Westminster Abbey and the exterior of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris on this trip, I can appreciate the scale and proportion of this Gothic cathedral. The community of Reims must have been extremely proud and passionate about this monument. It is no wonder that any destruction of such an iconic value to a community is devastating and unrecoverable unless it is rebuilt in its entirety.
Being a champagne producing area certainly fueled the economy of Reims and therefore its ability to fund such an elaborate structure. Walking through town, I noticed many fine patrician buildings dating from 1889 and earlier.
We did take a champagne tour at Casanova-Martell. Champagne is made from three grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunière. The juice provides the sugar and the skin provides the yeast. We had a delicious tasting of three champagnes.
Photos, from top:
1. The exterior of Reims cathedral, still under construction.
2. The Nave of the cathedral
3. The vaulted ceiling, of which portions were bombed in 1914-1918
4. The Rose Window at the South end
5. The Marc Chagall windows at the apse
So you didn’t REALLY think we were coming here to go sightseeing, did you? Dishes shown are from lunch at Clown Bar.
Photos, clockwise from top:
1. Ground snail beignets
2. Octopus with potato and pesto
3. Selection of Glacé desserts (presented very preciously in the way a chocolatier would)
4. Duck confit in pastry
This is one of the few places in the Western World where I have seen a museum devoted to the Arab World. Despite there being limited English text, the museum is worth visiting due to reminders that math and science are largely attributed to Arab inventions and discoveries.
Treasured silk was traded from Asia used to convert into garments and fabrics. The beautiful draped clothing takes advantage of the light that casts iridescent hues, and the geometric patterns found in many carpets and tapestries are reflective of the mathematical mind that developed in the Arab World. Other decorative patterns come from foliage and nature and often are in symmetrical, orderly arrangements.
One of my pursuits for this trip is to connect the dots between Western and Eastern cultures. The Arab World as well as Persia played a huge part in bridging this gap through trade and education.
1. Detail of aperture on the facade of the museum. Apertures are purported to adjust to the exterior light conditions but did not appear to have any consistency..
2. Intricate woven garment
3. Chest with geometric and foliate patterns
4. Carpet with geometric patterns
We are in good hands with Aziza pastry chef and daughter Melissa, who joined us in Paris after her stint in Ghent. She selected the shops and restaurants and got us to some of the best that Paris has to offer.
Photos from top down:
1. and 2. Counter shots of Patisserie near Septime
3. and 4. Two plates from Lunch at Septime–sublime!
5. and 6. First and Second Courses of Tasting Menu at Roseval, Paris
Photos, top down:
1. Bench side entertainment, St Paul’s Cathedral
2. London skyline along the Thames (from the Tower of London) featuring the “Shard” pyramid, or the Transamerica liftoff so London can be more like San Francisco.
3. St. Paul’s Cathedral, the only church in which its architect, Christopher Wren, was buried; also the only architect who was famous enough to be publicly buried?
Oh Yikes. Headed towards Covent Garden from Cartwright Gardens, where our very teeny studio “apartment” was located. You can barely fit two sardines in a can better than here, where the chairs have to be stored in the closet or you aren’t able to maneuver inside the room. This place has outclassed the Pod in New York by being meaner in proportions and square foot takeoffs. Still, all the amenities of a fully furnished “catered apartment” (as they call them on this side of the Atlantic) included dishes, pots and pans, and above all, Internet access.
I pointed out my old haunts, including the gorgeous Council flat in Gordon Mansions on Torrington Place. I subleased a bedsit there in the summer of 1975 for £9 a week from a student at the Architectural Association. Aside from the aura, living in Bloomsbury definitely had its advantages of location and walking distance to everything.
We made a stop in Soho Chinatown, where I rang the doorbell of a chartered accountant’s office. I thought the owners might recall Antonio Kwan and Bosco Chan, the two accountants who worked there 45 years ago and hired me to be their assistant. Despite my fumbling over the crank calculator using £ and Sterling, I mastered the abacus with their help.
Tony and Bosco did the accounts for the Chinese restaurants so we called on clients around lunchtime for obvious reasons. I saved the £1 lunch vouchers I was given to buy cheesecake for dinner! Unfortunately, my aspiration of working in a Chinese restaurant was never fulfilled. This was the closest I was ever going to get to personally working in the food industry!
We watched rivers of tourists from our window seats at dinner. The economy is being well replenished by international tourist consumption here. However, coming from New York, I couldn’t help but feel the depressing shabbiness of London’s buildings.
Still, the people are the ones who reflect the vibrancy of the city. We were reassured in Ladbroke the following night. Not only was the Turkish food at Fez Mangal fresh and tasty, but the ambiance consisted of a very healthy mix of all ethnic cultures, economic backgrounds, and lifestyles.
Photos, from top down:
1. Two Independent Parties at Fez Mangal enjoying the food
2. Fez Mangal Mixed Grill and Salad
3. Throngs of Tourists at Oxford Circus from the top front window of a newly minted No. 11 double decker bus–the cheapest way to see London’s sights.
Day 4: A Walk on the Hi-Line (NYC)
A stroll from 14th to 23rd Streets along New York’s ingenious repurposing of an old abandoned elevated railway line.
Photos, from top:
1. Wet surfaced paving tickles toes and creates unexpected delight
2. Shoppers bask in sun and chatter after a hard days’ work in the mines
3. Stadium viewers watch traffic on street below