Tag Archives: Architecture

SF Victoriana v.2

Local friends and family know I like taking cross-town walks, so a planned lunch downtown was another excuse to make a quick 5 mile, zero-carbon footprint (except on my soles) hoof from home to table. My usual 100-minute exercise was interrupted by several scenes along the way, extending the time another 30 minutes!

My first distraction was a tiny, delicious little custom sewing shop. Laden with love and care, this local shop presented itself with a cute storefront and encourages you to peek inside. The treasure trove of lovely ingredients sparks the imagination and reminds you to think about art and what you wear.

Further along McAllister Street, between Masonic Avenue and the Civic Center, are a potpourri of beautiful Victorian homes. These are well known in San Francisco as “Painted Ladies”. They continue to mature into beautiful streetscapes that can only be fully appreciated by foot.

The heavy timber buildings were built at the turn of the century, when San Francisco was flush with wealth from the “Rush” of the Gold Rush. Local craftsmen, who must have been trained as carpenters in Europe, and artisans detailed and built custom one-of a kind residences for the nouveau riche. The gentle weather in the Bay Area allows these incredible structures to survive beyond a natural lifespan, along with the healthy, inherently bug-resistent redwood bones.

The beautiful entryways, frontages and detailing are definitely “look at me” attractions. I have driven along this route many times, but have only just come to notice and appreciate these buildings recently by walking through the neighborhood.

If you remember from last month’s February posting, I showed pictures of a house with a giant Valentine dangling outside (shown to the left below). Intrigued with the artwork at the time, I didn’t make a mental note of where it was. This time, as I walked on the same street and the block before the house, I wondered where the Valentine house had been located. No sooner had I pondered this question, when it appeared!  A new outdoor greeting for Easter was proudly displayed.

The re-discovery of the hanging artwork brought a sheer feeling of glee to me. In addition, a tiny toy mailbox was perched on the garden wall just outside the house. There were colorful sheaves of paper hanging next to it, with a dog-chewed pencil attached. A sign invited comments to the artwork! I was so inspired and delighted by this opportunity. I showered the artist with kudos for caring and sharing and stuffed my note into the pumpkin-colored mailbox.

I was late to lunch, but  glowed all day.

PS. Plans for this summer’s travels are being finalized, so stay tuned!

Day 77-78: Art is Everywhere in Santa Fe

On an early morning walk, I was amazed at the amount of abundant sculpture and outdoor art in this small, aesthetic town. Landscaping, architectural elements, and artwork were integrated to give a deep sense and appreciation of the arts.

Throughout residential and commercial neighborhoods, you can find extensive use of the old adobe mud brick and plaster walls. They provide a consistent look and a unique quality to Santa Fe. The sense of time and place are established by this pattern. Newer walls surrounding buildings have a timeless quality, with updated elastomeric coatings that expand and contract with extreme weather conditions.

The wealth of galleries and museums are easily accessible within the city. The Georgia O’Keefe museum was just around the corner from our hotel. Although I am not a fan of her work, I learned to appreciate the life of O’Keefe and the meaning behind her work. She led an avant-garde lifestyle with her husband and photographer Albert Stieglitz in New York before settling in New Mexico.

My favorite piece from the museum was a cubist sculpture by Max Weber entitled: Figure in Rotation (1948)
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Later in the day we visited a collection of museums and galleries. The new Museum Hill area housed the Museum of International Folk Arts, the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, and the Anthropology Laboratory. It is only a couple of miles from the Plaza and accessible by bus.

We visited a couple of galleries along the Canyon Road area. I was trying to track down an old friend from school who is now a famous jewelry designer in New Mexico. We were able to find a gallery that exhibited her work and were impressed with the quality of the pieces using precious stones in modern settings. You can read about her in Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gail_Bird_and_Yazzie_Johnson

The next day, we visited Bandelier National Monument, where some of the Ancestral Pueblo Indians settled. Known as Frijoles Creek and Canyon, this area along the Rio Grande leads to the Alcove House, where we climbed up 140′ by ladder to see the cave dwellings. The pink rock is composed of volcanic ash that formed into a crumbly rock known as tuff. This material creates pits and can be carved into larger openings.

Day 75: Chicago Architectural Biennale

The Chicago Cultural Center (formerly the Chicago Public Library) is currently hosting the Architectural Biennale. Modeled after the Venice Biennale for art, it showcases creative architectural ideas and structures submitted by many countries. Programs will continue throughout the season until the end of the year. I would highly encourage anyone interested in architecture to visit Chicago this year.

A free noontime concert enticed me to spend an hour at one of the magnificent exhibition rooms that house one of the most beautiful domes in the world.

The Biennale hosted many interesting exhibitions, but one we specifically went to see was on workplace design. See the model of different ways to sit, stand, and work in the cutouts and the video screen shot below:

And the lobby area utilized flexible lighting that could be height adjusted with weights, and flexible drop in workspaces for visitors.
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Before embarking on our journey from Chicago to Santa Fe, I was able to catch a final glimpse of the Chagall’s “Four Seasons” Murals at the Chase Tower Plaza:

Day 63: New York City, New York (Il Trovatore and the Guggenheim)


IMG_9504For my old and new friends and fellow opera lovers, here are photos of the Mighty NY Metopera evening of Il Trovatore, with superstars Anna Netrebko and Dmitri Hvorostovsky.

In the most moving part of the evening, Hvorovosky was showered with yellow roses during his curtain call. He was recently diagnosed with a brain tumor and had cancelled all performances in July and August. He had only returned to perform with Anna Netrebko for three performances of Il Trovatore after positive treatment. You can read more about him on his website at:http://hvorostovsky.com/

Anna Netrebko, who played Leonora, was sublime, and Hvorostovsky was courageous and powerful. Delora Zajick, who played Azucena, and Yonghoon Lee, who played Manrico, were both well received.

Earlier in the day, we took a short walk to the Guggenheim Museum to see a highly recommended Doris Salcedo exhibition. Doris is a courageous artist who asks questions about trauma caused by colonialism, racism, and social injustice in her native Colombia and other countries through her work.

Interior Corkscrew
Interior Corkscrew

This museum was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, ca. 1959.
Most of the museum was closed during an installation of an exhibition. You can read more about this controversial museum at the time it was being designed and constructed at http://www.guggenheim.org/new-york/about/frank-lloyd-wright-building


1. A Flor de Piel, 2014: Based on a burial shroud, this fabric is an homage to a nurse who was tortured and murdered in Colombia.Its enormous undulating fabric is painstakingly stitched together from chemically preserved rose petals–a material replet with romantic  associations that at the same time mimics the appearance of flayed skin.

2. Wooden Armoires with Concrete and Steel: Between 1989 and 2008, Salcedo created an expansive body of work forged from pieces of domestic furniture with concrete poured in them, as if to immobilize and be muted by grief. The furniture represents the families of those who have died and their silent mourning.

3. 11 Stacks of Shirts with Rebars evoke an image of violent incursion

4. Disremembered, 2014: Woven from strands of silk thread, these works take the form of garments that would harm rather than protect the wearer. The shimmering forms hover on the edge of visibility, in an expression of the artist’s interest in representing the experience of loss through the shifting lens of memory.

For more information, go to Doris Salcedo at guggenheim.org/Salcedo. (These descriptions are excerpts from the Doris Salcedo exhibition material at the Guggenheim)
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On our walk back, we passed the Doggie Day Care Parade.
Available for your visual pleasure Only in New York.

Day 62: New York City, New York (continued)

Today was a continuation of yesterday’s whirlwind tour of galleries and museums, directed by two friends and ardent museum-goers. We started with a visit to the new Whitney Museum, that has been relocated from the Upper East Side to the Meatpacking District adjacent to the popular Highline. It was exciting to see an expanded display of America’s best that included many women and artists from different ethnicities. Galleries are organized and grouped by themes.

The featured painting above is entitled “Saigon” by Peter Saul, 1967. It shows the raping, death and destruction from that horrible war. You can go to the link below and find an audio presentation about it given by a museum guide.

The freshly minted building by Renzo Piano:


Photos above:
1. Sculpture by Ruth Asawa, San Francisco’s own
2. New York, 1955
3. Jackson Pollack
4. Rothko Painting indicating Tragedy, Ecstasy and Doom
5. Photographer in front of painting by Krasner, who was the wife of Pollack. After he died, she continued to paint but converted from small scale to large scale in his barn studio.


Normally, I roam the galleries looking for only the artists I recognize. Near the end of the visit, I made an effort to find three artists whose work I did not know. See those above for Cy Twombly, Alma Thomas, and Elizabeth Murray. So many contemporary artist represented in this vast collection can be intimidating and overwhelming, but I found that determining a small number for myself was manageable, energizing and educational. It didn’t stop me from continuing to look for those old shoes, however, for comfort’s sake!

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The Whitney specializes in American Art and has been a big supporter of providing classes for artists.

For more about this exhibition that closes on Sept. 27, “America is Hard to See” go to http://whitney.org/Exhibitions/AmericaIsHardToSee

If this exhibition at the Whitney wasn’t enough, the gods must have been crazy to allow me go to another major museum in town. The Metropolitan Museum was having a major exhibition on John Singer Sargent’s “Artists and Friends”. He was born in Europe to American parents and had extensive connections to highly influential individuals, artists, and musicians in Paris, London, and throughout Europe.

Here are a few of my favorites. They are dedicated to Sargent fan Tony (if you are out there):

Full Size Portraits

Head Portraits

This one’s for you Helena:

Simplon Landscape
Simplon Landscape

For more about this exhibition “Artists and Friends”, go to http://www.metmuseum.org/about-the-museum/press-room/exhibitions/2015/sargent

And last but not least, for Isa who asked:
These are televised screen shots from the Pope’s visit last night at St. Patrick’s Cathedral. We weren’t there, but our host was late to dinner after attending the mass. We were watching TV and checking for him in the audience. The Pope seemed like a pretty nice person.

Day 52-54: Week Two, Schwäbisch Hall

The Goethe Institute students in our class are already embarking on the second week of the two-week language and cultural program at Schwäbisch Hall. It has flown by, with many activities, new friends, and mind busting German classes that test our memories and expectations of ourselves. It feels as if we are on the same boat, cruising down the river of life together.

The Kloster Großcomburg and the Kirche St. Nicholas contains a rich collection of beautiful stone sculpture and elegant interiors. Clad with stone columns and capitals, plain ribbed walls and ceiling, and handsomely crafted wood pews, the Church interior and its materials seemed very modern and soothing to the eye. A beautiful stately organ was perched in the balcony ready to beckon its congregation. The church is at the top of a double-walled fortified hill, similar to the one at Schwäbisch Hall.

The ecclesiastical and royal stone figures possessed an air of confidence and stately manner. The king stands on the lions, a sign of royalty, but the queen is only allowed to stand on a dog as a sign of subordination. A stone knight looked poised, and ready to prance into the room. Its crisp, ribbed clothing was beautifully honed to perfection.

The day before, we took a full day excursion to Stuttgart and saw examples of historic buildings in the Altstadt area as well as modern, stately residential buildings with a strong Corbusier influence. With a population of 500,000, the city is built along a river and has steep hills with spectacular views similar those in San Francisco. Originally known as Bad Cannstatt, Stuttgart has a wine-growing region on the opposite side of the residential area and it was the impetus for Stuttgart’s growth. The city was bombed severely in World War II, so many of its original buildings no longer exist. Bosch, Porsche, and Mercedes-Benz are a few of its top companies.


In the afternoon we visited the Mercedes Museum. Daimler merged with Benz to create the world-wide brand of Mercedes-Benz. The classic three-pointed logo stands for the company’s products for land, sea, and air. The nine-floor, museum-quality ramped building was designed by Netherland’s Ben van Berkel and Caroline Bos’s UNStudio and features a timeline and modern history of the world since the development of the first Mercedes-Benz. Many of the classic automobiles, trucks and buses are also on display there.

In an outing the day before, a few of us were able to break into a small group and enjoy walking on one of the several Wanderwegs, or paths through and beyond Schwäbisch Hall. Despite drippy weather and overcast skies, our group encountered a field of sunflowers that brightened our day. It was a near-perfect day–only a rainbow was missing.

On a trip later to the supermarket, I found that wine is plentiful, with none over 6 Euros! The shelves were lined with a variety of locally produced wine. After a long search and at the end of the shelving in a “premium” section, I finally landed on a bottle of Hohenlohe Fürst Oehringen 2013 Lemberger Trocken (dry) for 9 Euros!! I tried, but I couldn’t find much for over 10 Euros.
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Day 51: Schwäbisch Sonntag

In preparation for my departure at the end of the week, I took a stroll through the town on my own in the afternoon. I savored the time alone, with no rushing through museums and tours. There are so many interesting paths, side streets and alleys lined with historic architecture, from medieval to modern. The city’s double walls and independent status allowed it to be spared from many battles and sieges. Thus its buildings and city were preserved.

A festival with music in the market plaza served free food and beer. Here are a few more shots that I took today.

A return to the Hällisch-Fränkische Museum gave me an opportunity to study the geology, early history of the area, and other exhibits. The city gained its prosperity and fame from the salt deposits along the river. The area was occupied by Celts and later Romans. One of the area’s well-known sculptors was Leonhart Michael, who created the moving stone relief sculpture shown below of Christ’s Crucifixion.

On a Sunday afternoon and for 90% of the time, I was alone in this beautifully crafted and presented museum. The scale models of the city and buildings reinforce how much the towns appreciate their history, architecture and planning.

A wig gallery allowed me to inspect them closely. Having heard about all the hygiene problems until the recent past, I’m sure that the wigs were developed to hide all those lice and growies on one’s head. After trying one, I was left to my own devices and was forced to take selfies of myself in drag. Sorry, you’ll never get to see them publicly.

Day 49-50: Ein Schönes Wochenende

Our “Beautiful Weekend” has begun! We started on Friday afternoon with a visit to the modern art museum, the Kunsthalle Würth. It’s a private gallery, with special exhibitions for Op Art and silver from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The building was designed by Danish architect Henning Larsen.

We strolled back to the main market plaza in town, past the Globe Theater, a replica of the one in England, and through the wooden bridge over the Kocher River.

On Saturday, we had an ambitious schedule for the entire day. A bus took our group of about 20 students first to Marbach am Neckar, Schiller’s birthplace. The house where Schiller was born was tiny but gave us an impression of life in this small town. Schiller was considered the “Poet of the Nation”, as he promoted freedom and the unification of the various states in today’s Germany.

If you remember, Goethe and Schiller were close friends. Much of their life’s work took place in Weimar, where we stayed for a few days earlier this year during the Dresden Music Festival. Statues of Schiller and Goethe are located in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

In the afternoon, we visited the baroque town of Ludwigsburg and the Ludwigsburg Palace. As a young student, Schiller lived in Ludwigsburg. Each town has its own markets, but this one surrounded by Baroque buildings was particularly enjoyable.

Germany has a strong sense of community, and each town has its special celebrations for young and old alike. This pumpkin festival, although small, reiterates the care and thought that is put into planning and implementation of each event for its citizens. It’s something I really respect and appreciate about the German culture.

I took a similar picture of the pumpkin display for a graceful older lady standing near me. When I noticed that she was struggling a bit, I asked her if she wanted me to take a picture for her. She was happy that I offered, but she was also very specific about how I should take the picture–make sure the edge of the balcony didn’t show in the picture, and get the building in the background. She declined when I asked her if she wanted a picture of herself.


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Day 47-48: Hohenlohe Lo and Behold

We were taken on an excursion this afternoon to Kirschberg, a medieval town in the outskirts of Schwabisch Hall. In typical fashion, the buildings were beautifully preserved, as Germany really appreciates the historical value and cultural significance of its past.

Our second stop was a visit to one of Germany’s model farms. It grows the maize and the hay to feed the cattle, and the cattle are grown for meat. It is cheaper to import beef from other countries to Germany, but the farmer can sell his meat at a higher price because of its flavor.

The farm used to produce alcohol but it became too expensive to produce. They have a new operation that processes methane for bio-fuel. Nearly every sloped roof I could see in the farming areas were packed with solar panels, and windmills are also located in the area to create electricity.

The second part of our excursion outside of town was at the Freilandmuseum of Schwäbisch Hall. Located in Hohenlohe, it is one of the seven open-air museums in the area. It is similar to Williamsburg, where period buildings are shown in their natural environment. Buildings were moved here from elsewhere to preserve them. We saw an early medieval farm house and a more recent one from the 19th century. We also visited a school house, where our instructor gave us a lesson on the present tense. He read us what the teachers would tell the students to discipline them. Corporal punishment was the name of the day–see “the White Ribbon”, a chilling film about a family in rural Germany by award-winning film director Michael Haneke.


The buildings showed the construction of the walls. Twigs were carefully cut and sorted to be consistently equal in size, and then they were placed between the posts and studs. The straw and mud plaster was used to fill in the gaps, and then plaster and paint was added over the walls. Early buildings were built of stone to avoid the eternal fear of fire, but eventually the materials were organized better to concentrate the use of stone in the basement for cooling and storage of food over the winter, and then placing the living quarters over the stone level to keep the house warm. Stone and iron were used in the cooking or hearth area to protect it from catching on fire.

If it wasn’t fire, the next greatest fear of any family was poor health. Of 15 children, half or more died in the 19th Century. Families had to live together for economies of scale and to look after the children. As mentioned in other historical tours, hygiene was very poor and people did not wash for a year. There was very poor sanitation and waste treatment. Like in the Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber Midnite Watchman tour, Schwabisch Hall had its alleys full of waste that was thrown out the windows of the houses. Wealthier people lived at the top of the steep hill so all the waste washed or slid down the hill to the river. So the poor got the worst of the lot. This contributed to the disease and infestation that baffled and plagued generations of farmers and city dwellers alike. I woke up just in time to notice that tour attendees tend to get pretty lethargic, until the stories about gore and horror get mentioned. Everyone perks up and pays attention intently. It must be trick the tour guides use to give everyone a jolt and reminder to achtung. Unfortunately, I’d heard it before.

We were treated to a specialty of the area known as “Wibele”, tiny tiny waffle-like coated snacks that look like mini macaroons. I confess that they were more delicious than they look. Our teacher told us it was a highlight that he remembers as a child. The schwein shown in the picture below is also known to be a specialty of the area. Its black head indicates that it was bred from another pig and it yields a distinct and delicious pork flavor.

I’m trying really hard not to overeat, so I am buying food from the supermarket and even tried cooking in the guest house kitchen tonite. I buy the usual fruit, granola and yogurt for breakfast, and conjured up some twistee noodles with garlic, olive oil, and tomatoes for a tasty home-cooked meal. I have been making sandwiches for lunch with delicious aromatic schinken ham and Swiss cheese and arugula on a fresh brot. Sorry foodies, no pictures to brag about for awhile. You’ll probably have to wait until I get to New York.

Finally, here’s a stray photo of our classroom, for those contemplating doing this program in the future:
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If you are the adventurous type, like meeting people, and living a spartan life, I highly recommend this program to you. You also get to learn a delightful language that is full of grace, elegance, and structure.

(Featured Photo, above: our class Mascot “Goethie”, from the Schwabisch pig shown in the background. They have black heads and bottoms, just like the stuffed one shown.)

Day 44-46: Schwäbisch Hall

My 2015 80 Days Around the World are already over half-way completed. As I look back at the titles and featured photos of this blog, I can’t help but be amazed at all the incredible sights and sounds of each unique environment. It does restore my faith in humanity when I think about all the efforts and decisions that have taken place to advance mankind in the world. And it goes without saying that meeting friends and making new ones are the highlight of any city.

So why I am traveling so much and so far? For a few newcomers, I thought I should take a minute to explain the purpose of my travels. It’s the same rationale behind the trip I took around the world this time last year, only in the opposite direction.

The fundamental reason for my traveling each year is to get to and from Germany to study German. I studied German in high school, and like an instrument that hadn’t been touched for a long time, I decided to dust off the creaky machine and make use of it. Having taken a couple of non-contiguous courses in San Francisco at the Goethe Institute got me jump-started. And a growing new interest in German writers, opera, and music motivates me to read Thomas Mann, librettos for the Zauberflote by Mozart and books about musicians like Schumann and Beethoven.

The means of getting to and from Germany form my itinerary. Last year, I went to Dresden for a month. This time, I am spending two weeks in Schwäbisch Hall in a language and cultural program.

This year, I traveled on the Tran-Mongolian Express from Beijing to Moscow with my husband, Gee Kin, visited Russia (also with Gee Kin), and tapped into German-speaking countries for a couple of weeks on my own. At the end of my course, I’ll fly to New York, spend some time in New England with my college friend Karen, then take the train cross-country back home with her. We’ll stop in a few cities across the US along the way.

Last year, I rolled in my curiosity about the old Silk Road and Central Asian cities with carpets named after them, like Samarkand, Bokhara, and Kiva. I traveled in a one-way direction eastwards instead of a round-trip to and from Germany. You can read more about these in the summaries for 2014 and 2015.

Of course, having the pure and intrepid lust for travel doesn’t hurt. It makes travel planning fun and challenging. Along with a fully supportive and understanding husband and family, I am free to go as far as I can, wherever I want. I try really hard to keep things affordable, interesting, but varied to match my interests.

So, back to what I have been doing for the past few days.

On arrival at Schwãbisch Hall, I was happy to finally unload EVERYTHING from my bags for two weeks. Despite traveling light, I still accumulated more brochures, historical materials, and a few CD’s than I had planned on collecting. I’ll have to make some hard decisions at the end of this stay as to whether I will continue to tow these in my bags. I slogged my carry-on, nearing the 14.6 kilo limit for the German Wings flight we took from Moscow to Berlin, and my backpack off three trains and a remote bus link to the Goethe Institute guest house where I am staying.

As it was overcast, threatening to rain and nearing the end of the day, I beat it over to the main guest house to retrieve my keys and card. It was exhilarating to get in the door after nearly two hours of juggling all my paraphernalia. The room was perfectly adequate, with a half-size refrigerator, plenty of storage, and a private bath. There were other students milling around, but everyone seemed pretty mellow and ready to start class.

The first day of class is always exciting. Direktor Herr Schmidt of the GI gave us an introduction about the city, its history and economic activities. We were split into classes after a written exam to determine our level and ability. I was not disappointed to be placed in the middle of the pack, along with 11 other students.

Our teacher has been teaching at the GI for ten years. After introductions and playing some getting-to-know-you games, we all felt comfortable. The nationalities in my class included students from the UK, US, Denmark, and Japan. Each person had an interesting background, but we also had similar interests in art, music, and history.

The GI is located in a former hospital that has been renovated completely. A “kirche”, or church, was part of the original building and where we were greeted in the beautiful, large meeting hall. Other modern facilities included a media library, cafeteria, and classrooms.

Schwabisch Hall is situated in South Central Germany between Frankfurt and Munich, near Stuttgart. It is a lovely, small city of about 40,000 people and a welcoming environment for its visitors. The Goethe Institute serves as an anchor for the city’s activities and Schwabisch Hall offers a wealth of celebrations, cultural events, and historical architecture. Within the Market Plaza are examples of medieval, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and modern architecture! You can get an overview of history just by turning 360 degrees!

The town is peppered with a network of pedestrian passages, stairs, and cobbled streets that make this a delightful environment for visitors and residents alike. The town planners showed how modern architecture, open landscaping, and transportation can work together to form a compatible, balanced machine for living.