Holita Nolita

I was up early today, and had a light breakfast in the hotel. The Cafe serves pastries and bagels from Balthazar and Ess-a-Bagels, both famous institutions in themselves, so I am in breakfast heaven (ironically I ordered steel cut oats!).

I headed down to Le Labo in Nolita for custom mixed fragrances from Grasse (the home of French perfumes) and ordered two scented candles and a musky flavored spray.

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Next I managed to get a seat at Balthazar for a bar lunch of scrambled eggs and mushrooms in a puff pastry and a glass of champagne.

I ripped back up to the Theater District to catch “the Heidi Chronicles”, then returned by subway with relative ease to the Ramen Lab for a quick dinner. After waiting outside in line for over an hour, I finally was able to get a seat at the bar at the Ramen Lab (what’s with these “labs”?). It was worth the wait, since I wasn’t dying to get home or go anywhere else. The noodles were decent but the miso soup and the pork belly were superb. The seat at the bar was moot, as the restaurant is so small. All 10 seats are “at the bar”, with no chairs, no stools, nada.

When the chef heard I was from San Francisco, he asked me if I had heard of the Ramen Shop in Oakland. He had worked there last summer for three weeks. The hostess told me she loves Tartine and Bi-Rite. She goes there every time she’s in SF. I was tempted to ask her if she had imported the idea of long lines from there to create hype for this place.

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People in photo above showing the noodle bar appear to be seated, but in fact they are standing. The bowl of noodles looks innocuous, but was delicious, particularly after waiting in the cold outside for so long. A guaranteed thumbs up no matter what the food tastes like, eh? All of these food and mood shops are within walking distance of the Spring Street Station Number 6 line near NY Chinatown.

My last destination, the Storefront for Art and Architecture, was no where to be found. In its place, I discovered a spanking new building just before hitting Nolita. It looked a little out of place among the old brick warehouses along the Bowery. It turned out to be the new campus of the Cooper Union.

I ventured inside and asked whether anyone knew who the architect was. The guard and a student shrugged their shoulders and one finally out of desperation uttered that they thought it was some blankety blank architect from CALIFORNIA. The style and design looked familiar, but the name danced on the tip of my tongue. When I found out later who it was, it seemed obvious. Anyone willing to guess?!? (Hint: we have a building in San Francisco by this well-known architect).

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Photos above: exterior and interior of the Cooper Union, by___.

Footnote: the Heidi Chronicles started out on a light note, but ended up being emotionally draining for me. In that respect I enjoyed it. It’s a boomer story of a woman who studied art history at Vassar (hmm…). After recounting each decade of her life with familiar friends, the lead character tries to make sense of being a woman in a male-dominated world. Maybe not for all, but I could relate to this story.

On the menu tomorrow: “It’s Only a Play” with Martin Short” and Blue Hill with Rik

The Mighty Mets

My focus for the Metropolitan Museum was to see the Central Asian and Silk Road related items to reinforce my understanding of the intercourse between East and West.

(You can tap on one photo to get full screen views in a slide show. Give time for them to upload.)

These are examples of Central Asian Art, beginning with the establishment of Islamic religion around 700AD through the reign of Timur or Tamarlane around 1350. If you remember from my travels in Samarqand and Bokhara, Timur’s base was there but he and his descendants conquered Iran, India, and everything in between.

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At the museum, huge scale entry gates, temple facades, and rooms or courtyards installed in large rooms or areas help visitors understand the architectural scale and context of various cultures. Above is the neo classical facade of a U.S. Bank from Wall Street. Below is the description and view of Assyrian entry gateposts. The map shows the location of various products traded throughout the world, including slaves from Africa, spices from East Indies, and chocolate from Mexico.

Here are a few selected Chinese items from the extensive Asian wing (only the first item is Silk Road related):


1. Horses and camels were coveted from Tang period when they were first traded from the Ferghana Valley, the narrow passage between China and Today’s Uzbekistan. The woman wears headgear to protect her from sand and dust.
2. Ming scholar’s room displaying furniture from period.
3. Bronze wine vessel that depicts serpent on cover and handle. Steam comes out of mouth when wine is hot.

Another “MET” addendum, from the Metopera: curtain call for Don Giovanni by Mozart. 19th century writers admired Mozart as one of the first musicians to tackle deeper psychological aspects of human triumph and tragedy in the main characters.
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Photo: Opera cast with Kate Lindsey and Peter Mattei, and Guest Conductor Alan Gilbert congratulating his orchestra.

Sorry, sports fans, I didn’t make it to any NY Mets baseball game, as the season hasn’t opened yet (Or that I am aware of; unless they are training elsewhere I don’t think they schedule games on snow-covered baseball fields!). Otherwise I coulda hit a triple!

British Prime Ministers in Jeopardy

imageIn a stunning performance as Queen Elizabeth in the Broadway play, “the Audience”, Helen Mirren nailed it again. In dialogue with some of her “Dirty Dozen” prime ministers, the queen exposed her confidence, flaws, and insecurities, along with her opinions of each prime minister. Despite her need to support each PM, she clearly had her favorites and nemeses.

This was one of the best Broadway plays I have ever seen. Perfect diction, dialog, and pure entertainment, with teachable moments thrown in for a total winner.

To test your knowledge of the string of PMs, try the following Jeopardy category. Give the questions to the answers (provided at the end.)

If you are a little rusty on British history, see “the Audience” with Helen Mirren on Broadway!

Jeopardy Category: BRITISH PRIME MINISTERS

Answers:
1. He committed troops to fight in Iraq in 2003 (1£)
2. Appointed special guardian to Princes William and Harry on death Of their mother Diana (5£)
3. Current and youngest PM since 1812 (100£)
4. Longest serving Prime Minister for 150 years (500£)
5. Churchill’s successor and Negotiator of the Suez crisis in 1956.(1000£)

Good Luck!

See questions to answers below:

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Whether the Weather…

image Photo, left: Whimsical thought of softly padded insulation on wire-framed outdoor seating

Mark Twain sarcastically commented that the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco, and even San Franciscans reluctantly agree in a rare self-deprecating moment. But being caught in the last snowstorm of the century in New York, I think Mark Twain ought to retract his statement. New York definitely gets the prize for the hassles one has had to endure in the soon-to-be infamous Winter of 2015.

Concerned family members have been asking me how I am faring with the weather. To be honest, it hasn’t really sunk into my path of denial yet. Until today. Fun over. I checked the list of weather stats for my favorite world cities that I track every now and then. How can NYC top the list as the coldest spot of 20? It apparently is doing so, beating out Dunhuang in the middle of Gansu and Tashkent in Uzbekistan. OK, so I cheat and have a string of Bay Area cities, but it’s the being HERE and not there that gives me the shake up call.

So I did the common sense thing and went out in the middle of the storm.

I met my dear friend Lisa, whom I had met in Hong Kong from the 70’s, when she was looking for a job and got in touch with me through a Berkeley connection. It was great to catch up with her after a long absence of 15 years since the last time we met in NYC. It was the first winter after 9/11 and New York at that time felt like a ghost town.

This time, Lisa met me at our designated lunch spot on the Upper East Side near the Metropolitan. Originally we had talked about going to visit a museum together. We abandoned that idea after glancing at the window periodically and realizing that staying in a nice cozy spot was a winner. We ended up chatting for hours. We switched mid-stream to another location for a change of pace but we kept our conversation going full steam. The venues hardly mattered, we had so much to catch up on–kids, family, work, travel, Board volunteering, and everything in between.

Lisa’s warmth and energy haven’t changed at all. It was gratifying to know and see an old friend the same in the best of ways. We have both been very lucky to have shared the same values and enjoyed similar interests throughout life.

Yes, life is short. But don’t let the weather get you down. It will be a sunny day tomorrow.

Holy MOMA!

The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) is and was overwhelming, so it required an advanced tactical maneuver (I was trained over twenty years ago during visits to Disneyland with kids). I had been here a few times before so I was prepared for the onslaught. I spent the better part of the day at the museum, from first arrival at 10:30 opening to a German film at 4pm, honoring this high Temple of Art.

As recommended by the museum to visitors, I duly focussed on two exhibitions only. One was the special exhibition entitled “The Forever Now: Contemporary Painting in an Atemporal World”. Pretty vague title, but it basically tackled how artists are pretty eclectic, borrow from various sources such as the Internet and art history, and make art. In the photo below, you can see a pretty amusing pile of canvasses on the floor. The artist invites viewers to touch it and interact with it in ways you aren’t allowed to when it is displayed on the wall. A visitor got pretty creative with it, using the canvasses as a blanket!

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Below is a painting I like by a black artist, Rashid Johnson. He painted a canvas entirely in black, showing his moods as he made strokes on the canvas. The black color also depicted the historical moment in Berlin when Europe decided to colonize Africa.image

The second exhibition and tour at the Design and Architecture Gallery was exhaustive and addressed “Uneven Urbanization” in four major cities: Hong Kong, New York, Istanbul and Rio. Mega cities are defined by having a population over 8 million. HK and NYC are considered one of the smaller cities in the spectrum of mega cities. The exhibit was put together by various consultants who tried to come up with small-scale solutions that people could do themselves. Building urban gardens and small cafes are examples to reduce alienation. Obviously this was a very tall order to try solving, but the exhibition was very thought-provoking. The tour guide, who teaches city planning, was very informative and packed a lot into a one-hour tour.

To recover from the heavy morning’s brain dump, I decided to lunch at the Modern, a Michelin-star rated restaurant at the MOMA. You can see the white glove service in the pictures and the menu below.

1. Main Course: Branzino steamed in spinach with trumpet mushrooms and orange zest
2. Starter: Grilled Fois Gras with quince
3. Starter: lobster and turnip

Starters were prefaced by an acorn squash soup with roasted almonds and sabayon. I chose a nice glass of French Chablis to complement my selections, after the wine steward failed to convince me to try a California Chardonnay or a NZ Riesling!

The finale at the MOMA was punctuated by a film “Left-Handed Woman” by Wim Wenders, a well-known German director (he did Wings of Desire and Paris, Texas). The most amazing part is that HE was actually at the film showing as part of a retrospective on his work and HE presented the film! This is what NYC gets that little specs like SF don’t. Thus my title for today’s posting.

Here’s a fuzzy picture of THE man on the left in front of the podium…

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If this weren’t enough, I dashed over to Bouchon at the Time-Warner Center for a quick dinner of warm olives, broccolini and salmon terrine (all appetizers), then hiked my way over to Lincoln Center for my first opera evening. Despite already seeing a half-dozen opera movies filmed from here this past season, I still felt excited to be at the MET in the skinny, particularly at a sold-out performance of Carmen.

Sadly, however, Jonas Kaufmann, my favorite performer who was scheduled to sing, was sick tonite. He was replaced by Yonghoon Lee, who did a pretty decent job as his understudy. Fortunately, I’ll have another chance to see Jonas, a German version (with a real operatic voice) of Andrea Bocelli in August.

The opera only had limited seating in the rafters (dead top of the stadium, last row). It wasn’t the best experience, but I was able to witness a signature performance at the MET. Below are a couple of shots of the dated lobby interior and the opera house. The chandeliers inside the opera hall move up to the ceiling automatically when the lights dim so they are out of the way–well appreciated for the bleacher seats where I was located.
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Photos above:
1. Lobby of the Metopera
2. Stage from very tippy top (opera glasses are useless from up here– you need a telescope)
3. Curtain Call with Elina Garanca (Carmen) and Yonghoon Lee (Don Jose)

Good Night!!

Up Next: Serafina and the Audience

Resource Tips

You can find more MOMA news on their awesome website at moma.org. When you visit MOMA, you can track your path and send emails of items you like to study further to yourself! The site also allows you to search and copy images of many items in the MOMA collection architectural models. Ordering tickets online in advance is also a timesaver.

You can book Bouchon (the inexpensive cafe related to Thomas Keller from French Laundry) and the Modern (very expensive) on opentable.com.

News Flash! Fodor’s Go List 2015

Fodor’s Go List 2015 includes the Silk Road! It covers the northern portion that Travelswithmyselfandothers.com covered last September in Turpan and Dunhuang. While we traveled east from Urumqi, Fodor’s trip starts in Xian and goes west.

Stay with us, and you’ll get the scoop on cutting edge travel. We can claim that we did it in 2014! You can find the original posts in the September 2014 archives or search for Days 51-54 in Segment III of the trip blog or for the Post index on Day 80.

Along with many other destinations (both common and exotic), you can read about the Silk Road at Fodor’s on Slide 26 at
http://www.fodors.com/news/photos/fodors-go-list-2015#!26-the-silk-road,-china.

United Nations in Jeopardy

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Coming from JFK and crossing the Queensboro Bridge this morning and staring at the ice floes in the Hudson (a first for me–to see ice on any body of water!), I realized that I haven’t ever been to the UN Building. Even after nearly a dozen times to this awesome city, I wasn’t any more astute than any other NY city dweller about this venerable institution. Visitors to San Francisco often asked us if we have been to Alcatraz. The knee jerk is based on snobbery coupled with insecurity, a dangerous defensive reaction we often give.

Anyway, it caught my attention and imagination, and I had a free day to un-jetlag myself from the red-eye. It also occurred to me that a new expansion had occurred recently. So I resolved to make it my activity for the morning and find out more about a major tourist attraction that I had never thought of visiting.

After a canned tour by a Brazilizan guide, I noticed that her trick to keep visitors engaged was to ask them trivia questions. So I decided to make it fun to see what information you know about answers in the form of questions, Jeopardy style. We often made Jeopardy games for the kids in the countries we were visiting, to keep them entertained (and focused).

Category: United Nations (value: your pride) (do-do-do ling do-ding-do)
Answers:

1. China, Russia, U.S., France and UK
2. Two of the six languages used for official translations other than English, French, Chinese, and Russian
3. Ban-Ki Moon’s predecessor
4. The continent with the highest number of peacekeeping operations today
5. Palestine and the Vatican

I learned quite a lot, if nothing else–to jog my memory over what I know about the UN, when it was formed (1945), and why it exists (6 good reasons, including peacekeeping, fighting world hunger, and human rights). The UN sends peacekeeping forces by edict, but costs are borne by each country that agree to participates.

Photos above (tap on photos to see captions and enlargements)

1. Security Council Chambers
2. General Assembly Chambers
3. Expansion for the U.S. Mission to the UN

Of course the deviant thought was: who built this original monstrosity?!? It has obviously suffered the test of time. The answers are yours truly, (and not a Jeopardy question although tempting): Wallace Harrison, Oscar Niemeyer, and Le Corbusier, the leading architects of the time (among others who unfortunately fall off the page). Leger, a French artist, did do a decent mural inside the General Assembly, though. While somewhat naive, it represented open and free thought that still has relevance today.

After the tour, I toyed with the idea of buying tourist trinkets, including flags, pins of each country, mugs and UNICEF tee shirts, but ended up with a free 24×36″ poster in Arabic to End Violence.

The expansion across the street was apparently designed for the U.S. Mission to the UN. (Designer: Gwathmey Siegel Architects).

Answers: see the bottom of the post!

I also asked the guide how much security was required for Netanyahu today. She looked perplexed and awkward, with no ready answer. We eventually worked out that he went to Congress today, not the UN. Oh well, close. Would have messed up my visit anyway!

Jeopardy Answers:

1. Which countries are Permanent Members of the Security Council?
2. What are Arabic and Spanish?
3. Who is Kofi Annan?
4. What is Africa?
5. What are the two countries that have a seat in the General Assembly but cannot vote?