Traveling by car from Lüneburg to Bavaria gave us an opportunity to make an overnight stop in Nurnberg at the Hotel Drei Raben. I had stayed here a couple of years before on my trip to Bayreuth for the Ring.
Just steps across the hotel in the historic pedestrian zone is the Neuses Museum. It was an unexpected find, with collection of Gerhard Richters and Bernard Luries. The museum’s widely swooped facade was a dramatic complement to the historic buildings surrounding the museum.
Inside, the whimsical staircase draws you immediately to the collections upstairs. The curved exterior wall contrasts intimate views of old buildings outside. It guides your eye along the entire length of the neighborhood. Generous community and additional gallery space are located in the level below.
The building was one of many numerous museum, school and research facilities designed by Staab Architects. Notable projects include the Albertinum in Dresden and the Max Planck Institute in Heidelberg.
The Neues Museum proudly houses a permanent collection of Gerhard Richter paintings. Because Richter’s work imbeds a long span of both German and modern art history, his paintings are in high demand and sell for over $30 million at global auction houses.
Richter was born in Dresden and got his training at the Dresden Academy of Art. He later joined the Dusseldorf Academy and taught there. He designed the south window of Köln Cathedral in his signature pattern of colorful squares.
Richter uses horizontal brush strokes and dry brush techniques to obscure the subject matter. In doing so, he forces the viewer to question what is real. This insight helped me to appreciate the beauty of his work.
Bernard Lurie is another artist originally from Eastern Europe. He fled to Berlin during WW2 and then eventually made his way to the US. His sculpting of the human figure and graphic references to the human form appealed to me.
Nurnberg along the Pedestrian Zone
HandelwerkhofLorenkircheView from the FleischbruckeHotel Drei RabenDinner at the classic Trodelhaus Restaurant
Good Design Award
Look! A Charging Station! Also. storage for large carry-on bags for tourists schlepping from the nearby railway station makes this museum a top hit for me.
After our trip abroad to Bulgaria to see opera diva Sonya Yoncheva at the Ancient Theater in Plovdiv, we flew back to Frankfurt, Germany. I caught up with sketch buddy Hazel from Heidlberg to travel by train back to Luneburg, my base in Germany. We met in Cologne for a side trip to Aachen, a UNESCO world heritage site. While most architects would consider visiting the Cologne Cathedral in all its Gothic glory, the earlier Aachen Cathedral is equally, if not more, impressive.
Aachen Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The history of Aachen is intimately tied to Charlemagne, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Crowned in 800 on Christmas Day by Pope Leo III in Rome, Charlemagne is also known as Charles the Great or Karl Der Grosse. Having multiple names in different languages seems to obfuscate his fame and the fact that he is one and the same individual.
Charlemagne was a multi-tasker. As King of the Franks from 768, King of the Lombards from 774, and Emperor of what is now known as the Carolingian Empire, he conquered the Saxons, the Allemands, and the Moors. As the Holy Roman Emperor, he consolidated Christianity in Western Europe. He was considered “Frankish” but spoke a language similar to what is German today.
After his father and brother died, he controlled large swaths of Europe. He chose his palace in the old Roman settlement with natural mineral springs and rebuilt Aachen Cathedral over the previous site. Over thirty German kings were crowned in this chapel.
The exquisite beauty and high quality of this cathedral impressed me. The stained glass windows, perhaps recently cleaned and replaced, were the most vibrant colors I had seen of any, and the decorated ceilings and walls were laden with gold in a tasteful and restrained manner.
The octagonal layout reflects the Romanesque buildings in Italy that preceded the taller, reaching for the sky Gothic buildings. Its structure was among one of the first of its kind and helped to establish itself as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This unique and marvelous building is worth a special trip to see it for both architects and the general public.
City of Aachen and Cathedral Exterior
All that Glitters is Gold
Cologne Cathedral
The later and better-known Gothic Cathedral in Cologne built around 1200 has its own magnificent place in architectural history. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Compared with Aachen, Cologne is much more ornate from the exterior. Despite it being the largest and tallest Gothic churches in Northern Europe, Cologne’s twin towers seem short and buried into massive side supports. The towers do not appear as elegant as later Gothic structures.
Nevertheless, its interior is a sight to behold. The Biblical stories are clearly depicted in the stained glass windows. The mosaics contain more white background and allow more light into the interior but are less brilliant than the windows in Aachen.Gerhard Richter designed one of the stained glass windows in the chapel.
The structure was heavily damaged by Allied bombing in World War II, but it was restored by 1956. While this is the more famous cathedral that architects yearn to visit, the Aachen Cathedral is equally worthy of a visit.
The East Asian Art Museum, Cologne
Wealthy collectors of East Asian Art in the early 20th Century became founders of this museum. They collected a wide spectrum of excellent examples of Japanese calligraphy, porcelain ware, early Chinese bronzes, and miniature rock sculpture.
Bronze ware
Japanese Calligraphy
Netsuke wareImari ware used for barbers with head cutout Early Export PorcelainDetailed scenes in porcelainShang Dynasty Bronze Bells
After a long-awaited pause in Luneburg at Annemarie’s home, we are preparing for the final leg of our journey. We will be traveling by car from Luneburg due South to Verona, Italy, stopping in Annemarie’s birthplace and heimat outside Munich, Bavaria. Come join us for the rest of the trip!
A free walking tour of Plovdiv in English gave us plenty of food for thought about Bulgaria’s long, complicated history as well as insights on current trends in art, architecture and music.
Bulgaria’s Complex History
From the 6th to 3rd Centuries BC, Thracians (of Spartacus’ era), Persians, Celts, and Macedonians fought over rule of the Bulgarian land, until the Romans (Tremontium) conquered the region in 45 AD. Various tribes successfully ruled after the fall of the Roman Empire in the 6th and 7th Centuries until the Byzantine Empire granted Bulgarian rule in 681AD.
The Cyrillic Script developed by the Bulgarians and used today by the Russians helped to unify the Slavic and Balkan cultures.that then dominated the area. The Ottomans arrived in 1396 and ruled until 1918. After the Russo Turkish war of 1877-78, the Russians gained influence over the area until the fall of the Berlin Wall.
While an independent state, Bulgaria is a democracy with a market economy. It has seen its share of problems with stronger powers controlling the country, however. Local politicians, weak and intent on short term gain, plague the country today. Corruption, mafioso rule, and disorganization jeopardize Bulgaria’s stability. Zero population growth and mass migration to other EU countries have caused an undertow to the economy with little hope in sight for a recovery.
Roman Infrastructure and Urban Planning
As one of the two European Centers of Culture identified in 2019, Plovdiv intended to promote its cultural treasures to the rest of the world. It was listed as a candidate for a UNESCO World Heritage Center, until the reconstruction of historic houses contravened UNESCO restrictions.
The Roman Ruins predetermined much of the city’s current layout. Aqueducts bringing water to the city from the mountains enabled Tremontium to thrive. A huge lozenge-shaped stadium, over 240 meters long, was erected for public events.
Eventually, as the stadium went into demise, a roadway and houses were built over the ruins. Only the small portion at the end has been excavated for public display.
The Cultural City in 2019The Roman Forum and LibraryThe Roman Forum and LibraryA model of the stadiumThe City ParkThe stadium ruinsThe Stadium ruins
Ottoman Architecture
From around the late 19th to early 20th Centuries, wealthy residents of Plovdiv built fancy houses in the Ottoman style of architecture. The wood frame buildings and decoration have been preserved in the Old Town area near the Ancient Theater.
The proportions are tall with thin windows to restrict heat gain. Colorful exteriors and painted decoration exemplified the wealth of private patrician families.
The Ethnographic Museum
Much of Bulgaria’s history and culture is preserved in this family home in the Old Town.
SeatingThe shaggiest bedcover everWooden String InstrumentsPainting showing a lively market scene
Many artifacts such as musical instruments, clothing, jewelry, and farm implements were displayed, as well as the handicrafts for metal forging, wool production and weaving.
Ethnographic Museum Interior
The Bachkovo Monastery
A side trip to the mountains beyond Plovdiv was a refreshing journey away from Plovdiv’s 90 degree Fahrenheit city heat. The Bachkovo Monastery and Refectory, founded in 1083, contained numerous frescoes from 1643 depicting Christian Orthodox history. The monastery was instrumental in saving many Jews from persecution camps in 1943. Historically, Bulgaria has embraced Christian, Jewish, and Muslim cultures.
Asen Fortress
The Asan Fortress was built in the 13th Century as a defensive guard tower over the steep ravine. The location offers panoramic views of the Rhodope Mountains.
Italian Night I in the Ancient Theater
Our main purpose for traveling from Germany to Bulgaria was to attend a Tosca concert featuring Sonya Yoncheva. An opera diva born in Plovdiv, the city was excited to see their native daughter return with her stunning voice.
Dean Vatchkov as Scarpa
Ivan Mimorov as Caravadossi
Sonya Yoncheva as Tosca
No-Curtain Call
We were excited by the rare opportunity to film the performance with the backdrop of the ancient theater’s ruins.
Italian Night II in the Ancient Theater
While browsing, we noticed a poster promoting an Italian night performance in the Ancient Theater a couple of days later. We hadn’t heard of the performers, but we were excited by the chance to see more opera at the theater. Even though there was no translation for tickets or the performance, our Bulgarian friend Vladimir was able to help us purchase tickets online. We knew exactly where to go from the previous performance.
After a delicious dinner of beef tongue and grilled vegetables at a road-side outdoor restaurant, we made our way to the theater a short walk from our Air BNB. We chose our seats near the center along one of the designated marble rows in Section D. As the lights dimmed and the orchestra played a brief introduction, the lead singer appeared on stage and began singing.
We strained our ears to adjust to the music. Hmm, we didn’t recognize the opera aria at first. By the time a faint echo of a saxophone was heard along with wild audience applause, we realized that the singers were crooners and the music was contemporary pop music!
Annemarie and I looked at each other and realized that the “Italian night” was not for opera, but for schmaltzy Italian songs! The audience knew all the words and swayed to the music, from the days when Italian pop was at the top of all European charts.
We laughed at how we had misunderstood the meaning of “Italian Night”. Indeed, the term applied to pop music as well as opera music. Our minds were too intent on opera! We felt a little sheepish at the false assumption we had each made.
Nevertheless, we enjoyed the concert as much as Sonya Yoncheva’s classy performance. With 80 degree whiffs wafting through the stadium, delightful colored stage lighting, and a mellow Bulgarian audience, it was a memorable and romantic musical evening regardless.
Ramazotti Favorite
Nessun Dorma, an Italian opera favorite by all
The Volare Finale
The Dining Scene in Plovdiv and Sofia
There were plenty of restaurants to soak up the tourist dollars, but even then everything was well prepared and dirt cheap. We especially enjoyed the eggplant and Turkish style mezze platters with tomato spread, pesto and burrata cheese. Cute outdoor restaurants in the Old Town area of Kapana were right outside our door and encouraged us to venture out and linger in the lively, 80-degree evenings.
Burrata, pesto and cheesePaellaCheese and eggplant spreadsClassic dishesMixed GrillKapana NeighborhoodKapana Neighborhood Dining
People of Bulgaria
Here’s a collection of some people on the street, in the park, at the train station, and on the train:
Meeting the people in Bulgaria brings dimension and insight to the country. We look forward to coming back to learn more about Bulgaria’s rich and extensive cultural history (and more opera in the Ancient Theater!!!)
Located along the Ilmenau River, Lüneburg is conveniently located a half hour by train from Hamburg. This beautiful and wealthy Hanseatic city has a history founded on its salt deposits. Salt was coveted in Europe and was transported from this area along the river since its discovery.
We think of salt used at the table to flavor food, but it was also essential for food preservation. In fact, over 80 per cent is devoted to the production of building and plastic. Another small percentage is used to salt roads.
Church of the PresentationThe Water Tower, LüneburgDie Krone BauhausSt. John’s Church
The merchants of Lüneburg built fancy homes and tall buildings. They consolidated power in the 16th Century and battled against the ducal regime to become a free state. The Lüneburg patricians are lesser known than the Venetians, but were just as wealthy and prominent.
Because of their proximity to the bog and Lüneburg Heath, a rise from the salt extraction, the earth was unstable. Many buildings subsided. The exteriors and local brick finishes are wavy gravy or look like leaning towers of Pisa, all sorrowfully showing their age and arduous future.
Copper roofing is prevalent throughout Luneburg, a further display of the city’s wealthy heritage. Local red brick was used for all the major buildings, including the St. John’s Lutheran Church. It was converted from a cathedral to a protestant church after the Reformation. A model of the spire is shown below.
The City Museum
A couple of displays in the City Museum showed architectural elements in buildings. The numerous windows and levels of an exposed timber structure would have been a child’s delight. The model depicting the steeple at St. John’s Church demonstrates the intricacy of the construction. The heavy assembly further added to the weight of the building and its impact on poor soil.
Excellent curated bilingual displays explained the paleontology, anthropological and contemporary history. Cess pits used to collect human waste were mined to yield household pottery, leather, and artifacts.
The East Prussian Museum
Another new museum in town connected alot of dots for me. In particular, where Prussia was located. Elector King Friedrich Wilhelm and the Hollenzollern family ruled over the area between Danzig and Königsberg (Kaliningrad), its capital. Dresden houses many of the treasures from the Prussian rulers.
Map of PrussiaKing Friedrich WilhelmNapoleon and LouiseNapoleon and Louise
When Napoleon defeated Prussia in 1807, the queen of Prussia, Louise of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, tried to plead with Napoleon for favorable terms. Two completely different depictions of the unsuccessful meeting were displayed. One was a sculpture indicating the diminutive Napoleon next to the powerful queen, and the large painting showed a different perspective, with Napoleon confident and the Queen at his mercy.
The museum also presents the history of the refugees who were forced to flee after World War II.
Living in Lüneburg
Living in Annemaries’s home gives me a glimpse of life as a resident in this frisky city of 185,000. Both tourists and residents enjoy active pedestrian shopping areas, numerous restaurants and cafes, and convenient transportation in the center of town. I can watch, hear and feel my tummy pulsate at each pit stop, whether it’s due to the frothy German pastries, cream coffees, or evening wine set precisely to the .11L mark that I snuck.
Spargel season is in full tilt so various thicknesses of the succulent stalks are batched and sold at the market. Solid German efficiency is evident in the display of Lovers’ locks packed along the river’s balustrade.
A industrial-strength iron at Annemarie’s assured me that I was going to get a permanent military-pressed fold on any piece of clothing or napkin.
I’m off to Berlin in the next few days for my fourth encounter of Wagner’s Ring Cycle, so stay tuned!
Despite numerous trips over the past ten years, I continue to remain loyal to the arts and classical music scene in Germany. The familiarity with many event venues, the high quality of performers and performances, and reveling German efficiency over and over never tires. It’s still my go-to choice of travel.
This year, my German friend Annemarie joins me. We met last year at Hamburg’s Elbphilharmonie sitting next to each other in scalped seats and in awe over Anne Sophie-Mutter’s virtuoso violinists. I am now introducing Annemarie to some of Germany’s most popular events, venues and classical performers. These cultural activities are supported by the German government.
You will hear more about our seven-week journey as we plunder through Dresden, Lueneburg, Dortmund, Germany, and later through Sofia, Bulgaria, and Verona, Italy.
The Transatlantic Flight
The 10.5 hour trip getting to Europe is always a chore so I decided to take a business class flight direct to Frankfurt.
From the colorfully striped carrier to the comfy hang-out pod and delicious food, I was enticed by the extra effort being put into a memorable experience. The pilot crew even allowed me to take a photo of the flight deck on arrival in Germany!
How do bubbles rise from hell to heaven?
After meeting Annemarie at the Dresden airport, we had a big debate about the effervescence in the glass of Nicholas Feuillatte champagne. Were the bubbles instigated by something like a cube of sugar? After seeing the description “The juice is pale yellow with silver tinges, brilliant and crystal-clear, revealing a persistent ribbon of delicate bubbles,” (per Google), What do you think?
A long layover in Frankfurt gave me plenty of time to contemplate the automated baggage drop. I’m not sure Americans would be able to speed the process up with this robotic service.
Automated baggage drop at Frankfurt Airport
Goethe Haus, Frankfurt
Realizing that the glow from the business class flight was not going to sustain my nine-hour layover in Frankfurt, I resolved to find a city museum in between. The combined Goethe House and Romantic Museum seemed like an efficient way to kill two museums with one swipe
Goethe’s house displayed memorabilia by Germany’s beloved poet, philosopher and writer and with those who influenced him. There was an entire room connected to the Sorrows of Werther, the book that made Goethe wildly popular when he was only in his twenties.
Faust was yet another one of Goethe’s famous books (purportedly to have been written in Auerbach’s Keller in Leipzig) where a room in the museum was dedicated to the story and its inspirations.
Adjacent to the author’s house, the Romantic Museum connects many other artists, writers, and musicians that formed the romantic movement before, during and after Goethe’s lifetime.
A couple of architectural details caught my eye. The clever use of dots for lighting and steps in brass provided a coordinated balance to the subtle tile and wood finishes.
Die Walküre in Dresden
If you are not particularly tuned to being an opera junkie, just skip to the next section.
Our first performance at the KulturPalast was filled with cranky Wagnerians to hear a concert performance of die Walküre, the second opera of the Ring Cycle. Kent Nagano, a hometown Berkeley kind of guy, conducted brilliantly and led the four opera roles for Sigmund, Siegemunde, Wotan and Brünhilde.
Compared with a staged performance, the music rang exquisitely clear. The earlier lecture revealed that this performance was committed to the original wording and instruments from Wagner’s work. A jarring clash of wooden cymbals was noticeable, but other than that the rest seemed perfectly integrated for the modern ear.
Curtain call at the Kulturpalast of Die Walküre led by Kent Nagano
Bad Schandau
Known as “Saxon Switzerland”, Bad Schandau is a spa town in the forested area along the Elbe River near the Czech border. An easy hour from Dresden, the multiple means of transport used to get there was more exciting than seeing the tall cliffs in the distance. Altogether, it took the train, a ferry and a vintage light rail train to see a trickling waterfall being repaired after dead trees from global warming blocked its path.
More tomorrow as we explore the Military Museum and the Loschwitz neighborhood. Don’t forget to write home!
A week in Sydney has given me ample time to both enjoy and scrutinize this world-class city with objective consideration.Skeptical at first, I was quickly swayed by the Opera House and the infusion of Asian culture. A continuous palette of cultural activities couldn’t help but seal my positive opinion of this city.
In a way, Sydney doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. Respecting aboriginal rights, embracing multi-culturalism, good planning, and fortunate climate all contribute to this energetic outcome. Everyone should come and participate in this cultural experiment in the making, and perhaps, like I did, discover why other parts of the world are unlike it.
The Views, the Views, the Views
Compare the activity and views below to San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, the Cruise Ship Terminal, and the Ferry Building along the Embarcadero:
Wherever you live in Sydney, you get a good mental picture of the fact that you are located near water. Gently rising hills provide sneak peaks of the harbor and adjacent seaside locations.
The Australia Museum
This national history museum offered interactive displays that were entertaining for both children and adults. The good old British tradition of documenting and researching the natural world is evident here, along with excellent communication and approaches to educating the public.
Museum EntranceLife Size Preserved SpiderBug CollectionInteractive Kids’ ExhibitsCaptivating Video at the Australia Museum
Museum of Contemporary Art
25% of the museum artwork is dedicated to aboriginal communities and their art. It was inspiring to learn about the original inhabitants alongside the latter day settlers as they form a context for artistic expression unique to Australia.
Bark PaintingBark PaintingEntrance to MCAExterior View from MCAExterior View from MCA
Conveniently located adjacent to the Cruise Ship Terminal and the Circular Quay, the MCA shared magnificent views of the Sydney Harbor Bridge and Opera House.
The Taronga Zoo
A quick 20-minute ferry ride to the Taronga Zoo made a perfect family outing. Elephants, giraffes, zebras are on display here, along with native animals such as the emu, kangaroos, and koalas
Naturally the koala bears were the first items on my agenda. I was still grateful that I took the extra two hours each way earlier in the week to visit the Ferndale Koalas outside of Sydney. The access to the male, female and baby koalas were more accessible, b ut I got my fix both ways.
The zoo’s proximity to the water and views of the city from the ferry continuously compete with the venue’s main attractions. Visitors and residents alike form an intimate connection to all points of the city wherever they are. Even the animals got a view of downtown Sydney!
More irresistible views of the city and its landmark opera house from the Taronga Zoo ferry:
To top it off, walks through stately Hyde Park in the middle of the city will make you fall in love with the city:
The Chinese Garden
Just footsteps from our hotel in the Central Business District was a beautifully designed Chinese Garden. We happened to be in town on Chinese New Year, and the festive atmosphere was supported by many children and even adults dressed in Chinese outfits. Being 20% Chinese, 20% White, and 16.5% Asian, the Asian influence is undeniable. At least in the downtown area, noodle shops and late-night retail services abound.
In the next neighborhood, Chinatown was hopping with tourists over the weekend. Festivities were topped by a fireworks display that was a fitting finale to our fascinating week in Sydney.
The difference in each Chinatown could be marked by its beginnings. The influx of Chinese in Sydney began in the Eighties. In comparison, Chinese immigrants who came illegally to San Francisco several generation before were primarily farmers and laborers. Exclusion laws, segregation and isolation dictated much of the history of San Francisco’s Chinatown.
Quirky Sydney
He-man activity at the bar, 5pmGigantic Tarantulas
From photos above:
He-man drinking is alive and well in Sydney.
Not to forget Australia’s convict past, this building’s graffiti seemed to capture the mood of the country.
A reminder of the gargantuan creatures that have inhabited this vast country.
Adventure programs galore on broadcast television. I was fascinated by HE-man energy shows. Ex-excavator operators used their skills to find gold in Africa, American yokels from different corners of the country yanked logs stuck in rivers, and of course love at first date programs added to the intrigue. Maybe all TV is like this, but watching it gave me a window into the world of the Australian mindset.
After a solid dose of these mesmerizing shows, I was wishing I could watch TV as I did when I was young. It felt strangely comforting to watch a screen flicker into the night and allow a machine control your brain and what you were about to see. I wasn’t stressing out over instagram posts, nor was I constantly checking for emails. The empty promotions for advertising or political campaigns could at least be avoided, and not in a better, but different way.
Who knows? Maybe we will all go back to TV one day, when AI programming is done for you on your phone. You no longer have to search The NY Times guides to 50 best Netflix or Max shows to watch before they disappear. You just turn it on and get given it on a bigger screen. Yikes.
“I Left my Head in Sydney”???
Despite many confident conclusions that Sydney is like San Francisco, that old saying is obsolete. In its early days, Sydney may have appeared to be a poor second cousin to the romantic image of the City by the Bay, and where Tony Bennett left his heart.
But no, Sydney is not just like San Francisco. True, it’s missing a romantic tune that everyone can sing. But that’s just about where the shortcoming stops. In a nutshell, Sydney seems to be more vibrant, safe and sane. At least in my opinion and after ten days here, traveling with myself and others.
If Sydney has 5 million people compared to San Francisco’s population of 750,000, Sydney should have more than five times the problems. Yet it feels like it has five times fewer problems. Why is that?
People work in Sydney! Tons of workers in the financial district dress smartly, rush to get their lattes before facing a day in the office. This is a city for crane-spotting, but they were too numerous to count. Maybe it, too, will reach a climax like San Francisco’s financial district. The pandemic didn’t affect Australia in the way it did in the U.S. But bad on us for what happened during that time.
San Francisco seems to be tired, shaken, and ailing. It’s crashing by its own success and in need of solving some major societal ailments. Lack of housing, income disparity, and political uncertainty contribute to the insecurity. But those are not just predicaments for the city of San Francisco. More people across the globe share the same disease that the American people are facing.
Things could change in either direction quickly, and my opinion may change accordingly. Until then, escape to Sydney. It has more hope for the future. If the problems are here, at least they are different. And seeing them photoshopped out of view, you have time to enjoy the scenery.
Perth appears to be the last major urban vestige of the world on a standard two-dimensional global map. As mentioned previously, I was reminded that it’s only five hours from Singapore. Australia is to us, a corner of the world, when it isn’t. Being here helps me to undo that bias.
The 35 degree heat, long sun-lit days from 5am to past 10pm and chokingly clear air are other mental adjustments. A brisk wind returns evenings to manageable temperatures. It reminds me of the hours when fog rolls into San Francisco around 3:30 in the afternoons.
After four days in transit observing the Australian landscape with passive wonder, I am now actively challenged to interactwith the environment and people. My first adventure was a one-hour side trip by train to Fremantle, a cozy little town on the coast of Western Australia.
Fremantle Prison
Known as the Mound, the octagonal building constructed in 1830 served as an outlook as well as the gallows for misbehaved convicts.
This prison preceded the larger Fremantle prison constructed in 1850.
Fremantle offers an opportunity to escape the sprawling dreariness of Perth. The streets have a neighborhood feel with quaint shops, galleries and cafes.
Architect’s Studio in Fremantle
I wandered into a gallery and ended up purchasing an Aboriginal work. I was captivated by the history and subject matter of the artists represented in the gallery. The gallery manager gave me an unrushed introduction to Aboriginal women artists.
I took a break after a long walk in the seering heat for outdoor seating at Pasta Addiction. I also asked if I could charge my phone there. The more you use your blue dot on the phone, the faster you deplete its battery. On top of the 35 degree heat, I wondered if my remote brain wasn’t going to explode!
Perth Art Gallery
I’m not sure what the difference between an art gallery and a museum, but this gallery was monumental. The exhibitions of Aboriginal art were commendable, but I’m not sure the scale of the building warranted being built. The donors must have place a high value on the lasting nature of art, or it would not exist.
Despite my non-existent Spanish language training, I reveled in Guadalajara for a week earlier this month. Discovering works by Architect Luis Barragan and Muralist Jose Orozco were the highlights of this brief five-day trip.
Thanks to a personally curated set of guided tours, I was able to grasp the history and significance of Guadalajara. As the third largest metropolitan area of 5 million inhabitants in Mexico, Guadalajara has all the trappings of what city-seekers like me appreciate–a healthy dose of museums, historic buildings, music, and innovative food!
The York Times article I read a few weeks before my trip determined my destination. Unable to use a flight credit all year, I was down to the wire. My last gasp produced a Heimlich solution. I immediately choked out time, circumstance, and a course of action.
I first booked a central city walking tour to get oriented, combined with a visit to the artsy neighborhood of Tlaquepacque. I then planned a trip to the newly discovered pyramids outside the city near the tequila producing area. A final market and cooking class to learn how to make chicken mole added the finishing touch to my visit.
Large plazas linking different parts of the city helped me to get oriented. However, my total lack of Spanish language knowledge presented some challenges. Few people speak English in this interior city. This situation would be a blessing for those keen on speaking Spanish.
There were plenty of cathedrals and churches to visit in this Catholic dominated part of the world. I got into the flow and didn’t mind seeing the Church promoting itself with all its magnificent glories. The Mexican people continue to practice the Christian fait wholeheartedly.
Sculpture dedicated to a famous Woman Artist
I was surprised that Guadalajara, and not Mexico City, was the cultural capital of Mexico. Much of the style and practices of architecture and buildings were adopted from European culture, while integrating indigenous Native American culture together. Guides reminded me that most of the American Southwest was at one time owned by Mexico.
Barragan and Orozco
A world-renown architect, Barragan was a native son of Guadalajara. Prior to the 19th Century, traditional adobe houses were built with a central courtyard. European industrial expansionists converted their home to gardens facing the street to display their wealth.
Barragan, known for his modern houses in the early 20th Century returned to the original adobe house layout with rooms surrounding an open courtyard. Concrete masses formed sculptural elements around gardens. He added decorative patterns on the walls as they were being built and offset doorways from traditional or symmetrical axes.
I was delighted and surprised to find Barragan’s early work so evident and proudly identified in the middle of this bustling city. Bronze monuments are placed at the front of each house to indicate the work of Barragan.
Hospice Cabanas SculptureSculptures dedicated to Orozco and Barragan, native sons of JaliscoBronze monumentCasa Orozco, a Barragan house in the Central zone
A visit to the Governor’s Palace was another startling surprise. I had only heard the name Orozco but was not familiar with his work. The technique for murals, placed on both walls and ceilings, were inspired by a trip he took to Italy to see Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. He mastered the art of fresco painting and used the best natural pigments available. Walls were painted quickly and skillfully before they dried. He painted in horizontal sections to control the amount of time he could apply the material.
The subject matter was philosophically arresting. Viewers of the murals are confronted with topics questioning the validity of politicians and religious leaders. He cautioned against capitalism, the possibility of industrial robotization , and deterioration of the human soul. He cautioned the role of the uneducated and the part they play in following orders unquestioningly.
Orozco wrote contracts that gave him complete artistic freedom from his clients. As a result, his messages to the public were uncompromised. The images are stirring and disturbing. Each viewer is confronted with the mess that competing forces have created.
He was critical of his contemporary, Diego Rivera. Orozco considered Rivera’s kowtowing to Rockefeller a disgrace, when he agreed to change the mural he painted in New York City.
Orozco was also a native son of Jalisco, the state in which Guadalajara is located.. You can read a brief summary of Orozco here:
In a UNESCO world-heritage designated building displaying Orozco’s magnificent murals, the Cabanas Hospice was built in the early 19th Century by an ambitious Catholic priest as an orphanage. The Mexican Revolution wreaked havoc on the native population and resulted in many starving and homeless children.
At its time, the hospice building was the largest building second only in size to the Vatican. Modeled after the Vatican’s grand interior, the building represents the aspirations and influence of the Catholic Church in the New World. On completion, over 3,000 orphans filled the building’s rooms and corridors
When Orozco was commissioned to paint the interior of the building in 1930, it was in demise and accommodated only 200 orphans. The Neo-Classical building was converted to a museum with Orozco’s murals intended to be the highlight.
Courtyard of Hospice CabanasInterior with Orozco FrescosCorridor to AtriumInside Main Dome with Orozco FrescoesDome with Burning ManEntrance to Hospice Cabanas
Tlaquepaque
The artist colony and pedestrian area of Tlaquepaque showcased whimsical outdoor sculptures reflecting their creators’ love of life. The spark of joy (and girth) is evident in the art.
The Delgollado Theater
The Neoclassical Delgollado Theatre, located a mile from my centrally-located historic hotel, inspired me to attend an evening performance. The local symphony did a pretty decent job of Beethoven’s Eroica Symphony. I was interested in experiencing a crowd who enjoys these cultural events.
The throngs of friends and families shopping and strolling sent a festive mood throughout the plazas, ablaze with Christmas displays. Walking was easier than taking a taxi to get around–the streets are narrow and congested with what seems like more cars per capita than people. The one mile distance to the theatre took 20 minutes by foot and 30 minutes by car….go figure!!!
Lobby Lighting at Delgollado TheaterPlaza TapatiaDome of Delgollado Theatre
Interior of the Delgollado Theater
Circular Pyramids
I took a side trip to Guachimonton, the circular pyramids about an hour and a half outside the city. It’s located on the other side of the mountain where Tequila is produced. Used as the main altar for burials, the mound is surrounded by a temple, patio, and a ball court. It is relatively unknown because it was only discovered in 1965 and excavations are still in process . The civilization thrived in the area from 300BC to 400AD.
Chicken Mole
A rainy Friday gave me a good excuse to take a cooking class. With only one other student, the session became a semi-private lesson. We first went to the huge market to shop for ingredients and received a detailed lesson on the myriad types of chiles. We made an entire chicken mole meal from scratch, with rice supplemented by a delicious fruit drink.
Chicken Mole!Corn Husks at MarketMarket MainstayMaking the moleMarket Hall DiningTamale Maker
Al Fresco Tortilla Making
Despite a couple of days of dreary weather, I was very glad to have ventured to this unknown part of Mexico. It is developing slowly despite its cultural attractions. It’s a good place to come if you want to avoid noisy obnoxious tourists, and I could barely find one to complain about. I was particularly delighted to see and learn about the Barragan houses and the Orozco murals. Yes, I would highly recommend coming to Guadalajara just for those two reasons alone.
News Flash!
I will be traveling again in 2024, so stay tuned to this website! I plan to travel to New Zealand and Australia next month, and then back to Germany and Bulgaria for more operatic and classical music events in the summer. The travel fever in me hasn’t quite worn off so let’s see what the next year brings….and don’t forget to send your comments and encouragement!
Here are a few photos of a museum in Luneburg, crazy train travel on a 49Euro ticket throughout the country, and sights in Lubeck, famous for its marzipan (I bought 2 lbs!)
Sammlung Henning J. Claassen
This was a beautiful gallery on the outskirts of Luneburg with a modern art collection with some examples shown here.
Train Travel in Germany
I somehow managed to snatch an online ticket for the month of September for only 49 euros! Crowds were intense over the weekend, but much saner during the rest of the week.
Friend Annemarie with sendoff from Luneburg
Lubeck
Idyllic Boat Cruise
Climate Action Protest in downtown Lubeck
A Last Look at Hamburg
St. Pauli from the Elbphilharmonie Plaza
A Newly Found Friend
Lively. Vivacious. Warm and friendly. Crazy. These are words that describe my new best friend.
It all started with a lost wallet. That is another story to be told, but let’s take this moment to a better place.
The Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg is the blessing in disguise. I had just taken my place in 16S (as in 16thfloor), Row 4, Seat 18 in the rafters at the sold-out concert. Soon thereafter, Annemarie arrived and greeted me as she sat down in Seat 19. We exchanged pleasantries and discovered that we had purchased tickets the hour before from the same person selling tickets outside the concert hall.
A third and fourth person appeared to claim their seats, and we all happily shared stories about how clever we were in snatching our tickets. Anne Sophie Mutter, the soloist, was a world-class violinist about to perform with a dozen other virtuosi string musicians.
After the exhilarating performance, I learned that Annemarie had worked in Chicago for 14 years. She was a marketing pro in the shipping business and was immersed in her life and work. Her warmth and charm reminded me of the inimitable friendliness of those from the Midwest. Growing up on a small farming village outside of Munich with four brothers, Annemarie had learned how to stand up for herself. She attributes her self-reliance and independent nature to her family relationships.
After the performance, Annemarie convinced me to visit her the next day in Luneburg, where she lived. I used my 49-euro, contactless monthly ticket to take the train there, a short hour-long trip outside of Hamburg. She met me and escorted me to her apartment, a mere five-minute walk from the train station. Her beautiful apartment was impeccably decorated with white carpeting and walls, soft modern furnishings, a few carefully chosen hand-crafted antiques and splashes of red here and there.
Picture windows framed a soothing garden outside, with greenery as far as the eye could see trailing down to a river beyond. A window cracked open allowed the breeze from the recent shower to waft inside. I felt so lucky to be invited into this luxurious German home! After Annemarie explained her work in the States, she described her humble upbringing. Her family grew hops for the breweries in Munich.
The two upper floors of her huge 20-room farmhouse were used to store and process grain. During harvest time, workers would load and hoist the hops that had been thrashed from the stalks to the top floor. The kernels would be poured into huge canvas sacks that were suspended by a hole on the bottom of the upper floor. They were then pressed into the sack while hanging down to the floor below. Using their feet, workers would then tamp and stamp the kernels inside the sacks to compress and leave them to dry.
Moarhofer, Putenhausen, Hallertau (outside of Munich, Germany)
On our walk through the quaint town of Lueneburg, Annemarie stopped to show me one of the random wild hops’ vines. A plump kernel at the upper tips of the plant looks like a giant white raspberry. Annemarie broke it open to show me what it looks like inside. She then closed her eyes and took a deep whiff. Her face broke into a huge smile. It immediately brought her back to her childhood, and in a moment she took me there with her.
The hops vine
I too, had suddenly flown to this fairy-tale town to Southern Bavaria. I had often seen lush green fields and the tidy plots of German farmland. I instantly connected to the description of her humble beginnings. They reminded me of my mother’s childhood in rural China. I. too, closed my eyes and allowed the thought to take me there.There were many other stories that Annemarie told me about growing up in Germany and living in the States.
After sharing wine, glorious concerts, and even a special overnight at her lovely home, I treasured this story about her childhood. We connected in many ways. While names of the farm families change, Moarhofer continues. I would love to visit there one day. Annemarie’s vivid description brought the photo to life, and her friendship has given me the reason for investing in the German language.
Approach to Elbpharmonie Concert Hall over parking garage and hotel levelsLife at the top
My primary interest in visiting Hamburg was the Elbphilharmonie, designed by Swiss architects Herzog and DeMeuron. In my book, it’s easily among the greatest modern buildings in the past hundred years.
It’s not flawless. But the experience is thrilling. As a destination, visitors marvel over its design and are overwhelmed by its prominence. Like a giant supercruise ship lifted out of the water, it sits on a promontory to the western edge of the city.
It’s now a destination point with tons of tourists from Luneburg to Buenos Aires. The size and massing establish its presence and its whimsical openings and surface treatment are intriguing,
There are few buildings I consider worthy from both interior and exterior perspectives. but this one exceeds my expectations. From the first encounter with the curve escalator to the 360 degree views of the harbor from the top, there is no comparable building in the world that combines an exciting amusement park with a inspirational view at the top of the world. Unless fans of bungee jumping argue that the sport is better. The results are the same.
At the first performance there, I watched a rock star from the rafters. Anne Sophie Mutter and her Virtuosi concert took the sold-out audience over the top. Sightlines were so good you felt you were in a front seat and the sound quality, thanks to Japanese ingenuity, made you feel as if you had just cleaned the wax out of your ears.
Anne Sophie Mutter and Virtuosi Performance to Sell Out Crowd
The second performance was in the Smaller Auditorium (Kleiner Saal). Quite a different but equally thrilling experience to that of the Larger Hall (Grosser Saal). The Mendelssohn Festival was being held simultaneously so the room and the chamber music fit perfectly.
Mendelssohn Festival in the Kleiner Saal (Small Room)Detail of sound wall in Kleiner SaalDizzying walls in an acoustically perfect sound auditorium
Like other European cities that have established star-architect branding to attract tourists to museums, Hamburg took a risk and turned its attention to a music venue. It cleverly lifted the concert hall to the pinnacle of a high rise building by putting 5 levels of parking at the base and sandwiching a hotel in the middriff.
Unfortunately it seemed like exiting the garage is a nightmare for attendees, both pedestrian and vehicular. And I questioned putting the high headcount at the top. I suppose its no different than occupants in a high rise building. There’s no doubt the building is spectacular and deserves its place among the top, if not the top, of ten best concert halls in the world. My opinion.
Fine and Applied Arts Museum, Hamburg
Wandering into the museum next to the train station was an oasis of German culture that I love. From the early beginnings of modern design and production of beautiful objects for the home, the roots of Ikea and Apple can ge found here. The tender, slender tendrils of Jugendstil (youthful style) represent the flowering of blending art and science, as it reflected the Art Nouveau movement and influenced the Moderne.
Fine and Applied Arts Museum, HamburgBeautiful ModerneHenry Van de Velde from the BauhausFurniture and Tapistry perfectly pairedTapistryUpholstered BenchMackintosh marketing menuFine and Applied Arts Museum furniture and objects from turn of the 19th to 20th century
The fine tapestries demonstrate the traditions of fine hand craftsmanship. Art extended into the home and blended architectural elements like walls, doors and windows as well as furniture. It’s no winder you see influences of Frank Lloyd Wright everywhere in these museums!
This special exhibition at the Fine Arts Museum captures the delight in educating and training children. The models, sketches, and planning required extreme care and dedication by talented professionals. Kids could draw their own creative versions!
PuppetsModelsKids’ versions of Sesame charactersPro Sketches for character shapes
Around the corner from the train station is where the other half of Hamburg lives. Real food is sold in markets here.
Luneburg
The Hanseatic city of Luneburg was a fine example of the wealth and commercial power of the Hanseatic league. Established to protect mutual trading interests of its members, the League was the most powerful from the 13th to the 15th centuries. Buildings in Luneburg have been preserved back to this period.
Locally controlled preservation of window detailsRoten rosen adorn the windows everywhereA typical windy space between buildingsHops vinesVillage view
Bremen controlled the North Sea and Hamburg controlled the Baltic. Athough Luneburg was not a coastal seaport, it derived its prominence from the salt in the area. I loved how roofscapes and windows made you “look up”, as Steve Jobs said in the opera (R)evolution about cell phones..
I was lucky enough to join my new German friend Annemarie to make a delivery to a client’s stately home on the outskirts of Luneburg. The thatched roof is a unique feature of homes in the area. Dedicated maintenance and care are required. The same roofing method was applied to the new pool house. The visit was a treat and a pleasure.
The underside of the new poolhouse roof, fabricated in the same way as the original house roofing material
There’s only a couple more days to see a final performance at the Philharmonie, then back to Berlin to catch my flight back to San Francisco!
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