Tag Archives: Commentary

Why I Love Dresden

Watch this video and you will see why:

Jan Vogler, the director of the Dresden Musikfestspiele, is having his contract extended. Rightfully so, as he masterminded a beautiful performance this year with L’il Buck, a contemporary dancer from the US, in an interpretation of Swan Lake. Vogler played the cello for Buck in a very poignant integration and interpretation of classical music with modern dance.

Five years ago, when I first went to Dresden in the middle of winter, I went to as many operas and performances in one week that I could afford. The quality was stellar, and all I had to do was shuffle across a plaza past the Frauenkirche in the snow and 5 degree Celsius weather to get there. I learned how to bundle up snugly, and then unbundle at the cloak room in the Semperoper in less than 5 minutes flat. I could also rebundle in the same amount of time. The assistants ran to deliver coats at the end of each performance to expedite delivery of personal belongings, carefully and artfully.

The first year, I learned that I was going to miss the upcoming Music Festival’s program focused on Asian performers in May. One of Korea’s top pop singers was going to perform on stage with a classical musician, Jan Vogler. It was my first awareness of this festival. It sparked my curiosity, and though disappointed that I couldn’t attend, I made a point to look out for the following year’s lineup.

The rest is history, and now I have completed my fourth year in a row at the festival. It’s not just the little city that could, for all its cultural attractions, or for the classical music abundant, but also for a great entrepreneur and director who in a very understated way can bring about alot of change. I am so impressed with Vogler and his mission to bring meaningful performances to the musical world.

This inspiration comes from chatting with my Swiss friend who recently met us in Dresden. In her second year, she is also sold on Dresden. She gets to appreciate German music and its underpinnings. We are now talking about next year’s rendezvous and program. Anyone else interested???

You can also check out the Festival at http://www.musikfestpiele.com.

The following photos are taken from the historic Frauenkirche, where Meilina and I heard the Helsinki Baroque Orchestra.

BFF (Best Friends Forever)

Returning to Dresden is like my home away from home. I have been here five times in five years, to soak in the grossly unknown treasures of music, architecture, and art available in this restored city.

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First we reconnected with our friends Hanne and Jens (shown above), who are residents of Germany. They just returned from world travels snorkeling in Thailand on a private junk and tours of Kweilin, Suzhou and Shanghai. We went to dinner at a Chinese restaurant to continue our research on the Chinese diaspora and to compare Chinese-German food with the real thing.

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Our next highlight was meeting Vladimir (above, with me), one of my classmates from the Goethe Institut last year. We lamented our lack of progress learning German, discussed Bulgarian history and politics, and future plans. The time was too short but we made the most of the afternoon. We walked to the Blaue Wunder Bridge and back.

In the late afternoon our friends Helena and Hans arrived from Switzerland. (Gee Kin met Helena over 40 years ago from the Beijing Foreign Languages Institute). After Helena and I met in Dresden last August, we made plans to attend the Musikfestspiele together this year. It was really exciting to attend the Opening Gala together at the Dresden Messe.

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Our short visit to Dresden was topped off by a meeting with Meilina (photo below, an der Frauenkirche), another dear friend from the Goethe Institut.

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She is studying Forestry here in Dresden and is a foreign student from Indonesia. I admire her dedication to her studies as she is away from her husband and two boys at home. She told me a very moving story about how each of her family members supported her studies in Germany, and thought that it would be a good thing for Mommy to do to further her career.

I will miss all my new and old friends, and especially BFF Dresden. In case you were wondering, Dresden has beat the contest with Prague. This was of course a completely subjective approach to favoring the known and emotional attachment to the little city that could.

An example of this amazing city is the performance we attended last night at the Dresden Messe. Simone Kermes, an operatic solo, performed with the Dresden Festival Orchestra, followed by L’il Buck. Nothing could be culturally further apart. Jan Vogler, the cellist and festival director, played the Swan Lake solo while L’il Buck did his amazing interpretation of a Swan.
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I admire both the director immensely for his visionary approach to blending classical and modern forms of music and performance, as well as L’il Buck for entering into a completely new audience. I challenge any other American or international city to provide this breadth of entertainment in one concentrated music festival period or single performance.

Prague is a major city capital and can offer many handsome historical and cultural activities to visitors. While being only a provincial city, Dresden offers a more intimate and simplified experience. Along with its great new airport, safe and spotless transportation system, access to a wealth of cultural activities, and a language that I feel comfortable in, Dresden wins hands down.

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The Finale, and View of the Frauenkirche from our apartment window

Großartige (Magnificent) Weimar

Photo above: View of Plaza outside Goethe’s House

Goethe and Schiller are often mentioned in the same breath when taking about Germany’s literary past and pride. It is no accident that both were friends and lived in Weimar as contemporaries. We came to this elite small town to learn more about each of them.

The Goethe Institute’s namesake was already mentioned last year when I attended a month long language class in Dresden (see Day 22 post in August 2014 Archives). I was fascinated by his life story. It began with his love interest, Charlotte, who was seven years’ his senior. He was swept away by her, despite her already being betrothed to another man. He was compelled to write one of the first romantic novels that spilled the beans (or poured his heart if you will), very openly and honestly. He eventually had to go away to Italy for two years to get over her.

The Sorrows of Young Werther recounts his passionate love for Charlotte as a young man. It went viral. Unfortunately, this success later plagued him in life to the extent he regretted writing it. The fleeting romance story didn’t exactly match up to the stature of his deeper thoughts. For me, it added dimension to his life and a reason for learning more about this great philosopher.

It even compelled Thomas Mann to write a story about Goethe’s famous love for Charlotte. In Lotte in Weimar, the modern writer of the 1930’s imagines Goethe meeting Charlotte in Weimar after they are in their sixties. She comes to visit with her sister and daughter, and she meets with Goethe. A faint reminder of Pride and Prejudice, both Goethe and Mann stories have deep psychological meaning despite being early soap operas. They are fascinating stories that examine and delve into German character and emotions.

Although we had been to Weimar before, I wanted to revisit this historically significant town. As a philosopher, politician, writer, artist and humanist, Goethe was a Renaissance man. After seeing his home, we have greater awareness and appreciation for his life and work. Of course, it didn’t hurt that he was patrician and hung out with royalty!


Photos above:
1. and 2. Interior of Goethe’s house
3. View of garden from inside house


Photos Above:

1. View of scenic Elbe River and Bad Schandau, from train en route from Prague to Dresden (approximately 2 hours by train)
2. View of Prague train station Art Nouveau interior, spotless and spit-shined (also very safe)

More on Schiller and the Bauhaus to come…

I’m in a NY State of Mind…

Although Billy Joel has been performing at Madison Square Garden, I wasn’t able to see him because he’s off during the time I’m here. Nevertheless, the weather, cultural riches, and access to all forms of public transportation have sucked me in to see it, do it, and think it just like a local New Yorker.

On a recommendation from New Yawka Peter (who lives in HK), I was inspired to head back down to Nolita’s neighbor, Chinatown. The new Museum of Chinese in America was recently coined by Maya Lin, the young architect who designed the Vietnam Vets Memorial in Washington, DC. Tracing Chinese American history and seeing the Chinese diaspora felt like going home to an old but familiar story. Just like popular Italian operas, you recognize the tunes, the stories, the characters. Only the comedic element was missing.

Nevertheless, the timeline was well presented. The history of the railroads, promises of gold, through days of war, Nationalism, and Communism in the home country were captured efficiently. I learned about the achievements of many Chinese Americans whose names were not familiar to me. They included an astronaut, a prominent AIDS researcher, and a female pilot. Maya Lin and the museum curators did a decent job highlighting the right amount of information for visitors.

Photos, from top, left to right:
1. Display area
2. Restored storefront of Chinese shop
3. Sign that bears a chilling similarity to the anti-Islamic protests currently in Germany

This museum is worth a visit, for content and the Maya Lin oeuvre. You can see and hear her talk about it at https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=976o62w45zg.

On a lighter note, the rest of my afternoon was devoted to seeing another theater production, “It’s Only a Play”, with Martin Short, Stockard Channing, and Matthew Broderick. Sorry to say, (to friend David, who was anxious to hear), that despite the big names, the script failed to keep the audience engaged. The actors were skilled at their craft, particularly my favorite Stockard Channing (from Grease and Six Degrees of Separation), but the story of the failure a Broadway play felt weak and contrived. It’s sad to think that the talents of so many were put to the task of delivering an uninspiring story, that ironically was the topic of the play.

The highlight of the evening was having a delightful dinner at Blue Hill on Washington Square with fellow architect Rik. We shared stories of being in the “order”, keeping up with the new techies, and fast-forward Chinese students. The food and service were impeccable, so definitely worth the cost of being entertained. Highly recommended.

Photos, from top, clockwise:
1. Thousand Year-old Egg and Pork Congee, Chinatown lunch
2. Mustard Relish for Bread, radishes from Stone Barn, and kohlrabi with cheese at Blue Hill;
3. Blue Hill dessert, sponge cake , apple crisp and ice cream

Coming up: Natural History Museum, Manon, and maybe the Neue Galerie on the final day in The Big Bad Apple.

Random Acts of Mindfulness

Take a look at some amusing signs I discovered on my brisk three mile walk this morning from Midtown to Nolita.

This shop caught my eye with a rare “full figure” mannequin next to a normal one. The detailed explanation earnestly states that a popular bra size is an H cup, the largest up to Size 56 with an N cup! (It’s worth tapping the photo to get a full screen reading of this public display). Amazing what you can learn on a morning stroll.

image I thought it was admirable for this supermarket to openly share their mission and core values with their customers, but I’m not sure how many have read it.

imageIn contending with this morning’s thaw, I thought it was ironic that this company couldn’t do much for improving the 25 degree (below zero in degrees Celsius) weather, even though they must be fine technicians.

Holita Nolita

I was up early today, and had a light breakfast in the hotel. The Cafe serves pastries and bagels from Balthazar and Ess-a-Bagels, both famous institutions in themselves, so I am in breakfast heaven (ironically I ordered steel cut oats!).

I headed down to Le Labo in Nolita for custom mixed fragrances from Grasse (the home of French perfumes) and ordered two scented candles and a musky flavored spray.

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Next I managed to get a seat at Balthazar for a bar lunch of scrambled eggs and mushrooms in a puff pastry and a glass of champagne.

I ripped back up to the Theater District to catch “the Heidi Chronicles”, then returned by subway with relative ease to the Ramen Lab for a quick dinner. After waiting outside in line for over an hour, I finally was able to get a seat at the bar at the Ramen Lab (what’s with these “labs”?). It was worth the wait, since I wasn’t dying to get home or go anywhere else. The noodles were decent but the miso soup and the pork belly were superb. The seat at the bar was moot, as the restaurant is so small. All 10 seats are “at the bar”, with no chairs, no stools, nada.

When the chef heard I was from San Francisco, he asked me if I had heard of the Ramen Shop in Oakland. He had worked there last summer for three weeks. The hostess told me she loves Tartine and Bi-Rite. She goes there every time she’s in SF. I was tempted to ask her if she had imported the idea of long lines from there to create hype for this place.

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People in photo above showing the noodle bar appear to be seated, but in fact they are standing. The bowl of noodles looks innocuous, but was delicious, particularly after waiting in the cold outside for so long. A guaranteed thumbs up no matter what the food tastes like, eh? All of these food and mood shops are within walking distance of the Spring Street Station Number 6 line near NY Chinatown.

My last destination, the Storefront for Art and Architecture, was no where to be found. In its place, I discovered a spanking new building just before hitting Nolita. It looked a little out of place among the old brick warehouses along the Bowery. It turned out to be the new campus of the Cooper Union.

I ventured inside and asked whether anyone knew who the architect was. The guard and a student shrugged their shoulders and one finally out of desperation uttered that they thought it was some blankety blank architect from CALIFORNIA. The style and design looked familiar, but the name danced on the tip of my tongue. When I found out later who it was, it seemed obvious. Anyone willing to guess?!? (Hint: we have a building in San Francisco by this well-known architect).

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Photos above: exterior and interior of the Cooper Union, by___.

Footnote: the Heidi Chronicles started out on a light note, but ended up being emotionally draining for me. In that respect I enjoyed it. It’s a boomer story of a woman who studied art history at Vassar (hmm…). After recounting each decade of her life with familiar friends, the lead character tries to make sense of being a woman in a male-dominated world. Maybe not for all, but I could relate to this story.

On the menu tomorrow: “It’s Only a Play” with Martin Short” and Blue Hill with Rik

Whether the Weather…

image Photo, left: Whimsical thought of softly padded insulation on wire-framed outdoor seating

Mark Twain sarcastically commented that the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco, and even San Franciscans reluctantly agree in a rare self-deprecating moment. But being caught in the last snowstorm of the century in New York, I think Mark Twain ought to retract his statement. New York definitely gets the prize for the hassles one has had to endure in the soon-to-be infamous Winter of 2015.

Concerned family members have been asking me how I am faring with the weather. To be honest, it hasn’t really sunk into my path of denial yet. Until today. Fun over. I checked the list of weather stats for my favorite world cities that I track every now and then. How can NYC top the list as the coldest spot of 20? It apparently is doing so, beating out Dunhuang in the middle of Gansu and Tashkent in Uzbekistan. OK, so I cheat and have a string of Bay Area cities, but it’s the being HERE and not there that gives me the shake up call.

So I did the common sense thing and went out in the middle of the storm.

I met my dear friend Lisa, whom I had met in Hong Kong from the 70’s, when she was looking for a job and got in touch with me through a Berkeley connection. It was great to catch up with her after a long absence of 15 years since the last time we met in NYC. It was the first winter after 9/11 and New York at that time felt like a ghost town.

This time, Lisa met me at our designated lunch spot on the Upper East Side near the Metropolitan. Originally we had talked about going to visit a museum together. We abandoned that idea after glancing at the window periodically and realizing that staying in a nice cozy spot was a winner. We ended up chatting for hours. We switched mid-stream to another location for a change of pace but we kept our conversation going full steam. The venues hardly mattered, we had so much to catch up on–kids, family, work, travel, Board volunteering, and everything in between.

Lisa’s warmth and energy haven’t changed at all. It was gratifying to know and see an old friend the same in the best of ways. We have both been very lucky to have shared the same values and enjoyed similar interests throughout life.

Yes, life is short. But don’t let the weather get you down. It will be a sunny day tomorrow.

Holy MOMA!

The Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) is and was overwhelming, so it required an advanced tactical maneuver (I was trained over twenty years ago during visits to Disneyland with kids). I had been here a few times before so I was prepared for the onslaught. I spent the better part of the day at the museum, from first arrival at 10:30 opening to a German film at 4pm, honoring this high Temple of Art.

As recommended by the museum to visitors, I duly focussed on two exhibitions only. One was the special exhibition entitled “The Forever Now: Contemporary Painting in an Atemporal World”. Pretty vague title, but it basically tackled how artists are pretty eclectic, borrow from various sources such as the Internet and art history, and make art. In the photo below, you can see a pretty amusing pile of canvasses on the floor. The artist invites viewers to touch it and interact with it in ways you aren’t allowed to when it is displayed on the wall. A visitor got pretty creative with it, using the canvasses as a blanket!

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Below is a painting I like by a black artist, Rashid Johnson. He painted a canvas entirely in black, showing his moods as he made strokes on the canvas. The black color also depicted the historical moment in Berlin when Europe decided to colonize Africa.image

The second exhibition and tour at the Design and Architecture Gallery was exhaustive and addressed “Uneven Urbanization” in four major cities: Hong Kong, New York, Istanbul and Rio. Mega cities are defined by having a population over 8 million. HK and NYC are considered one of the smaller cities in the spectrum of mega cities. The exhibit was put together by various consultants who tried to come up with small-scale solutions that people could do themselves. Building urban gardens and small cafes are examples to reduce alienation. Obviously this was a very tall order to try solving, but the exhibition was very thought-provoking. The tour guide, who teaches city planning, was very informative and packed a lot into a one-hour tour.

To recover from the heavy morning’s brain dump, I decided to lunch at the Modern, a Michelin-star rated restaurant at the MOMA. You can see the white glove service in the pictures and the menu below.

1. Main Course: Branzino steamed in spinach with trumpet mushrooms and orange zest
2. Starter: Grilled Fois Gras with quince
3. Starter: lobster and turnip

Starters were prefaced by an acorn squash soup with roasted almonds and sabayon. I chose a nice glass of French Chablis to complement my selections, after the wine steward failed to convince me to try a California Chardonnay or a NZ Riesling!

The finale at the MOMA was punctuated by a film “Left-Handed Woman” by Wim Wenders, a well-known German director (he did Wings of Desire and Paris, Texas). The most amazing part is that HE was actually at the film showing as part of a retrospective on his work and HE presented the film! This is what NYC gets that little specs like SF don’t. Thus my title for today’s posting.

Here’s a fuzzy picture of THE man on the left in front of the podium…

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If this weren’t enough, I dashed over to Bouchon at the Time-Warner Center for a quick dinner of warm olives, broccolini and salmon terrine (all appetizers), then hiked my way over to Lincoln Center for my first opera evening. Despite already seeing a half-dozen opera movies filmed from here this past season, I still felt excited to be at the MET in the skinny, particularly at a sold-out performance of Carmen.

Sadly, however, Jonas Kaufmann, my favorite performer who was scheduled to sing, was sick tonite. He was replaced by Yonghoon Lee, who did a pretty decent job as his understudy. Fortunately, I’ll have another chance to see Jonas, a German version (with a real operatic voice) of Andrea Bocelli in August.

The opera only had limited seating in the rafters (dead top of the stadium, last row). It wasn’t the best experience, but I was able to witness a signature performance at the MET. Below are a couple of shots of the dated lobby interior and the opera house. The chandeliers inside the opera hall move up to the ceiling automatically when the lights dim so they are out of the way–well appreciated for the bleacher seats where I was located.
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Photos above:
1. Lobby of the Metopera
2. Stage from very tippy top (opera glasses are useless from up here– you need a telescope)
3. Curtain Call with Elina Garanca (Carmen) and Yonghoon Lee (Don Jose)

Good Night!!

Up Next: Serafina and the Audience

Resource Tips

You can find more MOMA news on their awesome website at moma.org. When you visit MOMA, you can track your path and send emails of items you like to study further to yourself! The site also allows you to search and copy images of many items in the MOMA collection architectural models. Ordering tickets online in advance is also a timesaver.

You can book Bouchon (the inexpensive cafe related to Thomas Keller from French Laundry) and the Modern (very expensive) on opentable.com.

Day 63: With Gratitude to My Role Models

In an earlier post, I mentioned that wanted to be a role model for my family. I just realized that they have been role models for me. Gee Kin is kind, patient and curious. What more can I expect in a partner? He teaches me to be better in those ways by his own actions. On his departure back to the U.S. and my getting ready to head for Guangzhou from Chengdu, Gee Kin still made sure that I had the address of the hotel in Guangzhou where I am staying by myself in Chinese, that I had a little raggie for my dirty little face first thing in the morning, and that I had enough toilet paper to get me through the all-nighter. You would understand these necessities if you have traveled by train in China. I’m still too rebellious and Western-propagandized to accept that dealing with these inconveniences are a personal responsibility.

Despite my denial of these essentials, I reluctantly agreed to take them at the last minute. Yep, he was right. Being on the train alone helped me to 1. Understand 2. Accept 3. Use all of the above. This public confession is a way for me to thank and acknowledge Gee Kin for his caring, patience, and kindness.

Melissa, for all her dedication and focused perseverance of her craft, has taught me the value of finding a passion and working hard at it. She has shown me that fame and fortune lie in one’s own abilities, and no one else’s. I give her a lot of credit for her achievements and a ton for independent thinking. She has reminded me to think more for myself.

And Julianne for asking why. She’s a milder version of Louis CK’s daughter and the skit Louis did on her asking why about everything. Julianne’s training in philosophy got me curious about what it was all about. The book she tossed to me on Schumann led me to Dresden. Her desire to engage people and ideas makes me want to do more of the same.

Chinese are not about bragging (except for material wealth, cars, how much they earn, degrees, etc., but please! never overtly!) For me, I just want to tell my family and whoever reads this that I love them and appreciate them. They inspire me, move me, and are MY role models. What more could you want in life?

Photos: from top, left to right
1. Gee Kin, on Emei Shan
2. Melissa and me, in Paris
3. Julianne, in a cafe in Berkeley

Day 58: …and the “Diversity in Accommodation” Award goes to….

Back in my old Campus Planning days in the 90’s, I received a dubious distinction for “Most Diverse Clothing”, and no, I wasn’t cross dressing. I could easily transform myself from slob to slick. At that time it meant wearing tee shirts before casual was in and business suits for women that weren’t dark blue imitations of what men wore except for floppy dark blue bow ties.

For this post I decided to show you the range of hotel accommodations, from Emei Shan to the following day in Fraser Suites in Chengdu.  (OK, for Emei Shan camping could be more extreme but this was in a structure–or at least purported to be one. And yes, it was in a rural, remote part of the world, with NO standards. It makes the Marriott attention to detail something you would kill for after this encounter. And there’s no comparison as far as price was concerned because we are talking two ends of the spectrum.

I never claimed to be big on luxury, but I am admittedly a bit eclectic. You can compare the living, dining, and sleeping accommodations at your own leisure. At Fraser Suites, we were able to get a free upgrade to a 1-BR suite, free buffet breakfast, and full kitchen with washer/dryer for the price of a typical chain hotel. I think you will catch the drift. The bathroom in Emei was edited so you wouldn’t see the details of the floor toilet conveniently integrated directly below the shower, but the room did have, as the Brits say “an ensuite bedroom”. We came back to Fraser Suites in Chengdu and I finally got my shower. The difference in 24 hours is what bears consideration, and what a shock it is to my system. I think I deserve a “Diversity in Accommodation Award” at least for yesterday and today.