Photo, above: German (pronounced Her-Mann) and his Yelp 4.5 star rated food truck at the border in San Ysidro.
Deep fried fish, assorted seafood including mussels, octopus, shrimp and clams, and marlin on the menu.
The American Dream at work: creativity, innovation, and efficiency
“The grass is always greener on the other side”…view of Tijuana, Mexico from San Ysidro, California.
I don’t normally like to follow raves on buildings by architects, but I am glad to succumb to this one. The Salk Institute is one of the icons of architecture and considered a sacred site by many. You can see why from the setting, the restraint of materials, and the pure forms that are executed with absolute skill and perfection.
I’ve cut and pasted the text from the website below so you can understand its mission and beginnings.
The Salk Institute was established in the 1960s by Jonas Salk, M.D., the developer of the polio vaccine. His goal was to establish an institute that would explore questions about the basic principles of life. He wanted to make it possible for biologists and others to work together in a collaborative environment that would encoura them to consider the wider implications of their discoveries for the future of humanity.
History of the Salk
Jonas Salk had a distinct vision for the Salk Institute as he worked with scientists and architects to create a new paradigm for research and collaboration. Pictured above the early 1960s, Salk worked closely on many of the construction details of the Institute.
In December 1959, Salk and architect Louis Kahn began a unique partnership to design such a facility. Salk summarized his aesthetic objectives by telling the architect to “create a facility worthy of a visit by Picasso.” Kahn, who was a devoted artist before he became an architect, was able to respond to this challenge.
For San Diego mayor Charles Dail, a polio survivor, bringing the Salk Institute to San Diego was a personal quest. Dail showed Salk 27 acres on a mesa in La Jolla, just west of the proposed site for the new University of California campus then planned for San Diego. In June 1960, in a special referendum, the citizens of San Diego voted overwhelmingly to give the land for Salk’s dream. With initial financial support from the National Foundation/March of Dimes, Salk and Kahn were able to proceed.
Groundbreaking took place in 1962, and soon thereafter the Salk Institute for Biological Studies became a reality. A few key researchers were invited to work in temporary buildings which were used while construction was under way. When the first laboratory was opened in 1963, there were five senior scientists and their research teams. This distinguished group of fellows formed members of Salk’s first faculty group and in addition to Jonas Salk included Jacob Bronowski, Melvin Cohn, Renato Dulbecco, Edwin Lennox, and Leslie Orgel. The first Nonresident Fellows selected were Leo Szilard, Francis Crick, Salvador Luria, Jacques Monod, and Warren Weaver.
During the next few years, as the Salk expanded, resident fellows (now generally regarded as professors) and nonresident fellows (appointed scientists from other institutions) together advised Dr. Salk about future scientific directions. The organization of the Institute has evolved with time to its present structure, consisting of a board of trustees, a president and CEO, an academic council, and a chairman of the faculty.
Today the major areas of study at Salk are: molecular biology and genetics, neurosciences, and plant biology. Salk research provides new understanding and potential new therapies and treatments for a range of diseases—from cancer, AIDS and Alzheimer’s disease, to cardiovascular disorders, anomalies of the brain and birth defects. Discoveries by plant biologists at the Salk pave the way to improving the quality and quantity of the world’s food supply and to addressing pressing environmental problems, including global warming.
The Institute has been supported over the years by funds awarded to its members in the form of research grants, most from the National Institutes of Health, and from private foundations and individuals. Especially important has been the continued support of the March of Dimes which, in addition to funds for the original structure, has contributed significantly every year to the Institute’s financial needs.
For more details about the history of the Salk Institute, check the website http://www.salk.edu for information about the “Genesis of The Salk Institute”. Written by Suzanne Bourgeois, Professor Emerita and Founding Director of the Regulatory Biology Laboratory at the Salk Institute.
I am traveling today via Amtrak to San Diego. I will be meeting hubby Gee Kin tomorrow, who is flying in from SFO. This is a free trip for me, inspired by expired Amtrak points that were recovered. This “special” allows passengers to go from San Francisco to LA or San Diego area for 1500 points each way. Normally the minimum number of points is 10,000 for any free trip, so this was a bargain for those who have time.
The first leg is via what is known as a Thruway Bus, or by bus from SFO to Santa Barbara. It takes about 7.5 hours. After that, passengers transfer to the Pacific Surfliner from SB to LA or San Diego. The train arrives around 8pm, or in another 6 hours.
Obviously flying is far more efficient, but for me, why not? Free is free, but not faster. I managed to entertain myself on the bus with music, snoozing, and people watching. It was very comfortable and relaxing, far easier than my usual mode of driving.
The weekend will be capped by a visit to friends of ours, who live an hour outside SD. Since GK doesn’t have the time to travel by train, I plan to meet him at the airport tomorrow morning. After Gee Kin’s work-related portion of the trip, we will rent a car and drive to our friend’s place. We will do the reverse at the end of the trip, with Gee Kin flying back on Saturday, and then I will be taking the train on my own on Sunday.
This was initially a little complicated and confusing, but after I worked out the logistics it was quite simple. I discovered that I can wrap train travel around someone else’s busy schedule. By using Amtrak, I can enjoy some personal time and share time together. This works great for me, and is consistent with traveling with myself and others. If you hadn’t thought about this option before, you might consider this creative method of travel. It gives greater flexibility to accommodate different schedules for two people.
So far the bus ride following Hwy. 101 was uneventful, with stops in San Jose, Salinas, King City, San Luis Obispo and Paso Robles. The last two locations looked inviting, in between traversing many vineyards. And despite the drought, the Salinas Valley crops still looked well watered (pun intended).
From Santa Barbara to Ventura, the views along the Pacific Ocean have been spectacular, with tracks paralleling the surf! There are a string of small towns from Santa Barbara to LA such as Carpenteria and Oxnard. Alert your overseas friends and visitors (and a reminder to yourselves) that this portion of the route allows you to see the California coast and beaches ringside from the train during the day–which obviously now is the train’s featured namesake.
Here’s one additional bonus: free wifi on the train! I can write this and send it to you real time!
Stay tuned for the weekend’s activities coming up.
Watch this video and you will see why:
Jan Vogler, the director of the Dresden Musikfestspiele, is having his contract extended. Rightfully so, as he masterminded a beautiful performance this year with L’il Buck, a contemporary dancer from the US, in an interpretation of Swan Lake. Vogler played the cello for Buck in a very poignant integration and interpretation of classical music with modern dance.
Five years ago, when I first went to Dresden in the middle of winter, I went to as many operas and performances in one week that I could afford. The quality was stellar, and all I had to do was shuffle across a plaza past the Frauenkirche in the snow and 5 degree Celsius weather to get there. I learned how to bundle up snugly, and then unbundle at the cloak room in the Semperoper in less than 5 minutes flat. I could also rebundle in the same amount of time. The assistants ran to deliver coats at the end of each performance to expedite delivery of personal belongings, carefully and artfully.
The first year, I learned that I was going to miss the upcoming Music Festival’s program focused on Asian performers in May. One of Korea’s top pop singers was going to perform on stage with a classical musician, Jan Vogler. It was my first awareness of this festival. It sparked my curiosity, and though disappointed that I couldn’t attend, I made a point to look out for the following year’s lineup.
The rest is history, and now I have completed my fourth year in a row at the festival. It’s not just the little city that could, for all its cultural attractions, or for the classical music abundant, but also for a great entrepreneur and director who in a very understated way can bring about alot of change. I am so impressed with Vogler and his mission to bring meaningful performances to the musical world.
This inspiration comes from chatting with my Swiss friend who recently met us in Dresden. In her second year, she is also sold on Dresden. She gets to appreciate German music and its underpinnings. We are now talking about next year’s rendezvous and program. Anyone else interested???
You can also check out the Festival at http://www.musikfestpiele.com.
The following photos are taken from the historic Frauenkirche, where Meilina and I heard the Helsinki Baroque Orchestra.
Dear Friends and Fellow Travelers:
As this very short sojourn to Prague, Weimar, and Dresden draws to an end, I hope you have enjoyed reading my daily posts as I have had experiencing these memorable cities.
I close with a couple of irresistible shots from Prague for you to ponder whether these are hot, cool, or neither.
Look for the second grand 80 days-around-the-world tour in reverse that includes Beijing, the Trans-Siberian Express, more of German-speaking Europe, and U.S. cross-country beginning at the end of July.
Auf Wiedershen Liebe Freunde!
YUCK!!!
Returning to Dresden is like my home away from home. I have been here five times in five years, to soak in the grossly unknown treasures of music, architecture, and art available in this restored city.
First we reconnected with our friends Hanne and Jens (shown above), who are residents of Germany. They just returned from world travels snorkeling in Thailand on a private junk and tours of Kweilin, Suzhou and Shanghai. We went to dinner at a Chinese restaurant to continue our research on the Chinese diaspora and to compare Chinese-German food with the real thing.
Our next highlight was meeting Vladimir (above, with me), one of my classmates from the Goethe Institut last year. We lamented our lack of progress learning German, discussed Bulgarian history and politics, and future plans. The time was too short but we made the most of the afternoon. We walked to the Blaue Wunder Bridge and back.
In the late afternoon our friends Helena and Hans arrived from Switzerland. (Gee Kin met Helena over 40 years ago from the Beijing Foreign Languages Institute). After Helena and I met in Dresden last August, we made plans to attend the Musikfestspiele together this year. It was really exciting to attend the Opening Gala together at the Dresden Messe.
Our short visit to Dresden was topped off by a meeting with Meilina (photo below, an der Frauenkirche), another dear friend from the Goethe Institut.
She is studying Forestry here in Dresden and is a foreign student from Indonesia. I admire her dedication to her studies as she is away from her husband and two boys at home. She told me a very moving story about how each of her family members supported her studies in Germany, and thought that it would be a good thing for Mommy to do to further her career.
I will miss all my new and old friends, and especially BFF Dresden. In case you were wondering, Dresden has beat the contest with Prague. This was of course a completely subjective approach to favoring the known and emotional attachment to the little city that could.
An example of this amazing city is the performance we attended last night at the Dresden Messe. Simone Kermes, an operatic solo, performed with the Dresden Festival Orchestra, followed by L’il Buck. Nothing could be culturally further apart. Jan Vogler, the cellist and festival director, played the Swan Lake solo while L’il Buck did his amazing interpretation of a Swan.
I admire both the director immensely for his visionary approach to blending classical and modern forms of music and performance, as well as L’il Buck for entering into a completely new audience. I challenge any other American or international city to provide this breadth of entertainment in one concentrated music festival period or single performance.
Prague is a major city capital and can offer many handsome historical and cultural activities to visitors. While being only a provincial city, Dresden offers a more intimate and simplified experience. Along with its great new airport, safe and spotless transportation system, access to a wealth of cultural activities, and a language that I feel comfortable in, Dresden wins hands down.
The Finale, and View of the Frauenkirche from our apartment window
One of the true pleasures of coming to Germany is to hear great classical music, not only by inspired young musicians, but to hear performances in the composers homes where they lived. We had such an opportunity yesterday, when we attended a performance by the Hoch Schule for Musik Franz Lizst (Franz Lizst Music High School). Seven advanced piano students performed pieces by Chopin and Lizst.
Their performances were passionate and stirring. The very room where Lizst trained his students was where these students played these masters’ compositions. (See drawing room photo above, left, and dining room adjacent to drawing room, right)
Earlier yesterday and this evening, we attended performances at the Hoch Schule around the corner across the back alley to our hotel. We could slip into free performances by a guest harpsichordist from Prague and other Hoch Schule cello students. What a treat it was to hear high quality music so conveniently located–virtually in the back yard–and for free! Photo above shows Festival Hall where performances are held)
This morning before our activities in town, we took a brisk walk 4 km. to the Belvedere Castle outside of town and back. The bus easily could have taken us there, but we decided to get some exercise and see the countryside. We walked through the Park Ilm, another historic UNESCO world heritage site. There are about a dozen sites in Weimar that form a collection of UNESCO-recognized cultural treasures.
Later in the day, we visited the Schiller House. Although Schiller wrote the stories about Don Carlo and William Tell, we are more familiar with the music set for them by Verdi and Rossini. Beethoven also wrote his Ode to Joy based on the poem by Schiller. An exhibition at the Schiller House showed how instrumental the Artist Lucas Cranach and his son were in promoting the teachings of Martin Luther through their woodcuts, graphic arts, and paintings.
Our evening was topped off by a performance at the Weimar Hall with a solo pianist performance. (see header and photo below). It was a full day that filled our brains with deep thoughts, our ears with beautiful music, and our eyes with inspiring visions. We were definitely not bored or looking for amusement today.
While food has not been the focus on this trip, we nevertheless enjoy comparing and contrasting the regional specialties with contemporary dishes. German food today is similar to how people used to regard English food–with disdain. While German food is clearly meat and potatoes tradiationally, I have found that the quality of the produce very high and the preparation excellent.
Photo above: View of Plaza outside Goethe’s House
Goethe and Schiller are often mentioned in the same breath when taking about Germany’s literary past and pride. It is no accident that both were friends and lived in Weimar as contemporaries. We came to this elite small town to learn more about each of them.
The Goethe Institute’s namesake was already mentioned last year when I attended a month long language class in Dresden (see Day 22 post in August 2014 Archives). I was fascinated by his life story. It began with his love interest, Charlotte, who was seven years’ his senior. He was swept away by her, despite her already being betrothed to another man. He was compelled to write one of the first romantic novels that spilled the beans (or poured his heart if you will), very openly and honestly. He eventually had to go away to Italy for two years to get over her.
The Sorrows of Young Werther recounts his passionate love for Charlotte as a young man. It went viral. Unfortunately, this success later plagued him in life to the extent he regretted writing it. The fleeting romance story didn’t exactly match up to the stature of his deeper thoughts. For me, it added dimension to his life and a reason for learning more about this great philosopher.
It even compelled Thomas Mann to write a story about Goethe’s famous love for Charlotte. In Lotte in Weimar, the modern writer of the 1930’s imagines Goethe meeting Charlotte in Weimar after they are in their sixties. She comes to visit with her sister and daughter, and she meets with Goethe. A faint reminder of Pride and Prejudice, both Goethe and Mann stories have deep psychological meaning despite being early soap operas. They are fascinating stories that examine and delve into German character and emotions.
Although we had been to Weimar before, I wanted to revisit this historically significant town. As a philosopher, politician, writer, artist and humanist, Goethe was a Renaissance man. After seeing his home, we have greater awareness and appreciation for his life and work. Of course, it didn’t hurt that he was patrician and hung out with royalty!
1. View of scenic Elbe River and Bad Schandau, from train en route from Prague to Dresden (approximately 2 hours by train)
2. View of Prague train station Art Nouveau interior, spotless and spit-shined (also very safe)
More on Schiller and the Bauhaus to come…
Exterior of Municipal Hall with murals by Mucha
Alfonse Mucha was a Czech graphic designer who was known for his advertising posters of Sarah Bernhardt, and for his signature designs that were instrumental in the Art Nouveau movement. After a successful career in Prague and New York, he decided to return to his Czech roots. He dreamt of helping to record the saga of the Slavic nation after WWII. Through his benefactor, he was able to depict the Slav Epic in 20 murals, now housed in the National Museum.
The museum was closed, but we were able to see three of his works in the National Gallery. The poster framed in gold was one of the pieces. The Mucha Museum showed most of his work and an informative video produced by the Mucha Foundation presented the life of this artist. He was prolific as one of the first advertising artists of his day, and became famous in Paris. He hob-knobbed with famous artists and patrons, and eventually made his way to New York.
Upon his return to Prague, he was commissioned to decorate the Municipal Hall where the concert we attended last night was held. The interior was ornately decorated with etched glass, brass trim, and murals by Mucha. The view of the stage with the organ, the dome, and the interior photos you see are taken inside the hall.
More impressive was the musical performance. Despite my initial trepidation about hard sellers barking on the street to us, we were glad that we succumbed to their pleas. The music itself was delightful and the quality was very high. We heard a Mozart Concerto in C Major with a violin soloist, and Beethoven’s triple Concerto in G Major for Violin, Cello and Piano. The highlight was Dvorak’s New World Symphony, a stirring reminder of the Czech Republic’s early beginnings.
With 60 musicians performing for a small audience of less than 200 people (mostly tourists), I wondered how they were able to break even. It was great value, and I even felt a bit guilty paying so little for such a fine, ovation-warranted performance. To top it off, we continue to enjoy visiting and attending performances in beautiful and historic buildings. This particular building reminded me of the Palacio des Belles Artes in Mexico City. (See posts and video in December 2014 on Mexico City Art and Architecture).
It was particularly thrilling to reflect on the day’s exposure to Mucha and his commitment to the Czech People, followed by stirring music by Dvorak and the conductor of the North Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, in a venue decorated by Mucha himself! The visual and sound effects conveyed the passionate feelings of the artists and made the experience very moving and emotional.
As for the competition between Dresden and Prague, two musically inclined cities, I can only be politically correct and say that they are similar and different. Dresden has the Semper Opera House, the Schiller Theater, Frauenkirche and many other smaller venues that provide seasonal programs including the annual Music Festival.
Prague has its counterparts in State-supported venues such as the National Opera House, National Theater, Municipal House, Rudolfinum and many churches. With a larger population, Prague seems to rely on a pattern of daily, year-round performances for tourists who expect to hear music on demand. I’m sure there are performances catered to local music lovers, but I wasn’t able ascertain whether the tourist-oriented events were also for local residents.
I’ll continue this debate and decide after the musical events in Dresden this week as to which city I prefer (I have a hunch already–what’s your guess?). It will be strictly subjective, determined by many factors such as weather, what I ate that day just before the performance, how easily I got to the venue, and who’s in the audience! Assume all the music in both cities is the best quality and value that can be found anywhere in the world.
Entrance to historic restaurant in Art Nouveau splendor
Detail of hall interior
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