All posts by VickieVictoria

Intrepid traveler. Architect and appreciator of design, art, language, opera, history, and anthropology.

Cafe Lily: Uzbeki-Korean Crossover

Report by Special Correspondent AD Craig (who was not able to attend the White House Correspondents Association dinner due to assignment in Brooklyn):

We all went there today, Saturday, for a late lunch–Emilie, me, our son Sacha, his wife Kate and their 9-month old son Xavier.

Out on the street, the ambiance is pure immigrant Queens–Uzbeks, Russians, Koreans, Chinese.

Inside, the ambiance is pleasantly Soviet–heavy burgundy drapes, with red table-cloths showing under the plastic covers. The lingua franca between the staff–Korean, Uzbek, Russian–is Russian.

The restaurant is a BYO (bring-your-own). The table opposite us–two Uzbeks talking quietly to each other in Russian–were drinking what looked to me like Hungarian “Bulls Blood”, a Soviet red wine favorite from the 1990s.

Disco music was playing softly in the background. This prompted our young disco star, Xavier, to jive in his high-chair for most of the lunch. The Russian & Korean waitresses regularly stopped by to give him a loving smooch.

Our Uzbek waiter was very helpful. He understood that we were looking for a good balance between the Korean, Uzbek & Russian components of the menu. He encouraged us to try Korean salads, Russian soups & pelmeni, and Uzbek shisk-kebabs of various kinds. We readily agreed.

We also added Korean blood sausage–something I had enjoyed in street markets in Seoul–and pan-fried liver.

Our family group was very happy with the results. They were a little surprised that I was mildly critical of some things. For example, all the salads had a kimchi taste. I love kimchi, but Korean salads are very varied with many different, subtle flavors–so I would have liked to see more of that in the menu.

The soup received universal praise from our gang. This is the same soup that the NYTimes reviewer describes in their review. The generous pelmeni with sour cream also went down well.

Surprise, surprise, there was a misunderstanding about our order, so the kebabs didn’t show up. No problem, since we were pooped with the salads, soup, pelmeni, blood sausage & liver. We promised ourselves we’ll try the kebabs next time..!!

Voilà for our family restaurant review of Café Lily, Bensonhurst, NY

The original review:

You can find more of ADavid Craig’s musings in iTunes under:
Footloose by The Grinch
https://itun.es/us/P2rugb.l

Impressionistic Views

Monet Exhibit

The special Monet exhibit at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco is worth seeing if you are in town through May. You get an extra bonus on a beautiful day with views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Monet’s early years were revealing. He wasn’t always the fuzzy artist we have come to know. He was very accomplished and painted his family and landscapes on trips to London and Holland. His studies of flickering light on water and objects were exquisite. These led him to the later impressionistic work as his eyesight failed him.

He worked so skillfully en plein air that all the paint was still wet on the canvas when he put his brush down! Amateurs could only dream of mastering painting like that.

Going dark

You might think its pretty hard to avoid the news media these days, but I am proud to say that I have gone dark for over a solid month now. After battling a serious addiction to the news, I decided to kick it completely. I couldn’t take the noise and felt like I was going deaf from it.

Short of a few minor infractions by headlines that popped up on innocent websites not known for news (my bank, Instagram, or Twitter for the non-news sites I visit), I went cold turkey. That included TV, internet and newpapers!

The filtered, second- or third-hand information you inadvertently receive from conversations with others protects you from heading into a 100-year flood or dam collapse. My best solicited sources of news and weather reports in California were from friends in Germany! They certainly were much more concise and only told me that I need’t look for Noah’s Ark yet.

I finally broke the ice today and listened to Deutsche Welle’s Langsamer Gesprochen, or news in German spoken s-l-o-w-l-y. I got both curiosity and language learning covered at-the-same-time.

Racist or Anti-Racist?

At our German class last night, we had an interesting assignment. Specifically, we were learning the words for musical instruments and prepositions. In general, the story we were to read with a partner involved a group of residents in an apartment building in a German city. Each of the residents played a different instrument. When they each practiced, they caused havoc and complaints between neighbors in the building.

Next thing we read is that a foreigner moves into the building. He plays the guitar. Suddenly all the neighbors who never spoke to each other become friends and band together to complain about the new neighbor. I love learning German for all the analysis and critical thinking they throw into exercises just to make sure you are paying attention.

The guitarist eventually moves away, and the neighbors go back to being the way they were–unfriendly,complaining, and not speaking to each other.

Clearly there are cultural differences between moral judgment and how we are taught in Germany and the U.S. But if the teacher hadn’t explained it to us, I would have thought it was a racist story! What do you think?

Cafe Lily

I discovered from one of Ruth Reichl’s tweets that a Korean-Uzbeki restaurant exists deep in the heart of Brooklyn. I immediately calendared this intriguing cafe on my list of go-tos once we arrive in New York on our upcoming trip eastward.

The article from the NY Times attached explains how Koreans ended up in the far-flung former Russian state in Central Asia. If it hadn’t been for Julianne’s classmate, who had been to Uzbekistan on a Korean Christian mission, we never would have connected the dots.

But indeed the Koreans were purged from cities like Moscow and Vladivostok during WW 2 to isolated Uzbekistan. If you remember from my first travels in 2013, I visited the Silk Road cities of Tashkent, Samarkand, Bokhara and Kiva. I can’t wait to get another sweet reminder of the delicate flavors from there, combining plov (pilav) and root vegetables with kim chee and barbequed meat!

For those interested, here’s the writeup:https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/16/dining/cafe-lily-review-bensonhurst-korean-uzbek.html

Here are the photos (reformatted with new editing tools) originally posted from travels to the Samarqand market Bazaar in Uzbekistan in 2014. The market in Tashkent was even larger– one of the biggest in the world that I have seen! (Click on photos for captions and larger images)

Bouquets of Birthday wishes in March to: Farris, Marilyn, Julianne, Frances, and Corene!

A Chinese Chicken Kind of Year

For Chinese New Year’s, I prepared a dinner for eight to those who have never experienced a Chinese celebration. I served the usual chicken and duck (purchased from Irving Street), but added vegetable dishes that included three kinds of mushrooms (not shown in the photo above) with greens and a Fuschia Dunlop recipe of shrimp with green tea over water chestnuts, snow peas, and carrots.

The missing dish from the picture was the taro root and pork belly casserole that was still in the oven. Guests opted for cold noodle salad over black rice. Starters included lotus root chips, and a cross between Chinese salame and head cheese made with pigs’ feet in aspic from an ancient Chinese cooking manual.

Many friends and followers may not be aware of the Lunar New Year celebrated by Chinese all over the world. While it’s not a religious holiday, it’s a version of religion when the focus is on FOOD. I can’t think of another culture that places such great importance on what we eat. The Chinese, although becoming more health conscious, will still defy any food allergies or restrictions. No vegan, gluten-free, lactose-intolerant or peanut-product allergists need apply. We eat pork, chicken, lamb, beef, and fish from head to toe and everything in between. Literally.

I’ve often given a long leash to the Chinese with the notion that deprivation drove habits, desires and fetishes. And certainly food is the best example of Chinese culture in this respect. We have taken food and cooking it to a different level, for the reason of the greatest deprivations we have endured. Chinese greet each other by inquiring if they have eaten yet, not how they are. And frequent roadside conversations among friends and strangers resort to the different type of soup they are preparing or should make to cure an ailment.

So in the year of the Chicken, it’s appropriate to serve the noble bird, along with every other kind of meat you can get your hands on. It used to be an annual event when you could have meat, so the quest for meat has always been compelling in Chinese culture. Even in the land of plenty, old traditions die hard. We still like to see the twinkly eyes of the dead chicken and fish despite the Westerner’s horror at seeing them.

We have evolved over centuries and generations, to still honor our parents, focus on education, and be humble. It’s difficult to break outside the box when millions of our forebears remind you of your place in society. Yet it is a strong and compelling force. The older we get, the more alike the rest of our ancestors we become. And, it’s such not a bad place to be.

According to most Asian cultures, everyone is born into the year of some animal. They repeat every twelve years based on the lunar new year cycle. Gee Kin just discovered that, while he always thought he was a rabbit, he is actually a tiger!! Apparently, in the year he was born, the actual date of the new year was after his February birthday, not before. He never checked the dates until yesterday. So he’s now in the midst of a trans-animal personality change. It’s a pretty big flip-flop from being a bunny to a tiger. Oh dear. Now I can’t stop him from leaping from room to room and scaring the hell out of me, when he used to meekly tiptoe and be terrified of me.

If you are interested in what goes on here in San Francisco over the week of Chinese New Year’s celebrations, take a look at: https://instagram.com/p/BP0URBCjJqO/, with compliments from daughter Melissa.

And speaking of travels, my new page for 2017’s travels will be listed below the header on this page.

Happily, the End of 2016!

Leonard Cohen died. Your data are at risk. And it’s the end of the year.

So we skipped out of town and headed to Mendocino. For my foreign friends, it’s a coastal town about 3 hours’ drive north of San Francisco, through majestic redwoods 300 years old, on non-commercial roads in a commercial country. It’s a blissful escape to a pristine environment that reminds you of growing up in a pure and innocent world.

Our conversations focused on what defines the American Dream, whether it still exists, and how Germany compares to the US in liveability.

We overnighted at a local bed and breakfast, where the owners struggle to pay their mortgage for 12 years until a frisky new buyer can be found.

On the way back, we picked up a magnum of Brut Rose at Roederer Estate, a couple of bottles of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at Husch, and a bag of apples at a roadside orchard.

The winery, an original, has seen the rise of baby boomer vineyard owners descend on the Andersen Valley, after the apple orchards had displaced the sheep. Not bad for terroir development, I guessed.

We prepare for the New Year’s arrival, wisking away bad habits and hoping for a brighter beginning next year. Wishing all of you the best for a happier new year!!

No Carbon Footprint Series: Belmont-San Francisco (Days 4-5)

Header image above: Bay Meadows Development

Featured Photo above: a very exclusive corporate center in Palo Alto where I made a pit stop!

Photos of Millbrae sights, above:

1. Milk Mural

2. Historical marker for Milk Mural

3. Vintage cars, in abundance in San Mateo. Mild weather, no bugs, and lots of old people with lots of money make them plentiful

4. Iron Horse chained to a pole at a gas station!

5. Yep, we made it here.

6. Street monument on El Camino. Not as romantic as the ones in Berlin, but still fun to find at your feet

Above, our lunch at Hong Kong Flower Lounge in Millbrae. A highlight of our jaunt included Tofu, ginkgo nuts, and pea tendrils in soup, pigs’ feet and red egg in vineagar, congee with thousand year old egg, and sesame balls!!

The fish tank displayed 2 giant lobster, Alaskan King crab, and prawns.

We have reached our destination safely and in one piece (two pieces, to be exact)! It was a great way  to make use of a fabulous week of perfect winter weather, have fun with great company, and get in some serious calorie reduction techniques. You can reduce the carbon footprint instead of flying, avoid traffic, and see your world around you. For those interested, here was the route:

San Jose-Sunnyvale (Sunday) 8.4 mi.

Sunnyvale-Palo Alto (Monday) 9.7 mi.

Palo Alto-Belmont (Tuesday) 7.7 mi.

Belmont-Millbrae (Wednesday) 10 mi.

San Francisco-Millbrae (Thursday) 12 mi.

You can also find my earlier trips to Napa and San Jose at http://www.crazyladywalks.com.

Finally, on a sad note, we send our condolences to the families of the Berlin attack. A photo of the location from our visit to the Breitscheidplatz Christmas Market in Berlin in January of this year is here:

A safe and precious holiday to all.

VickieVictoria

No Carbon Footprint Series: Sunnyvale to Belmont (Days 2-3)

Our journey from San Jose to San Francisco progresses at a rate of approximately 10 miles per day. Since it follows a dead flat route with virtually no elevation change, it is a healthy, simple challenge for beginners. It’s not exactly the Santiago de Compostela, but certainly more easily accessible being in California!

After a 3-4 hour beeline with a couple of pit stops for clothing changes, nut breaks, and bathroom visits, we arrived at one of the hotels I prebooked a couple of days ago. We enjoyed a late lunch nearby, took a nap, and caught up with lively conversations that would not otherwise occur. It’s a great way to reconnect again, and to appreciate the precious time you have with your partner.

I haven’t documented prior trips so this time I’m devoting additional time to doing so. Yesterday we discovered a gem of a music shop in Palo Alto, that sells guitars, mandolins and other hand plucked string instruments (see photo above).

The old Mountain View neighborhood hosted a string of modest, pre-war bungalow-type houses that were as inviting as those in Sunnyvale the day before. They proudly displayed orange and grapefruit trees in their front yards. Interestingly, there were fewer decorations as we approached upper-crust Palo Alto.

The houses are close to the streets, with only a 5-15′ setback. A sad reminder of a time when the world was trusting and safer.

I looked out for Eichler homes that are scattered throughout the neighborhood. They were a new phenomenon at the time–a departure from the 3-BR 2-bath ranch house. Same size, but instead they boasted inner courtyards with plenty of light for each room. They didn’t appear to be as prominent on the streets we passed along.

Although we follow the general route of El Camino Real, a long strip highway/road originally linking the missions, we manage to take parallel off-streets whenever possible. The small residential streets are definitely more pleasant, but they sometimes end up inside subdivisions with curvy dead ends or no outlet. To avoid that I check the street end-to-end before using it, so we know where to turn. Google maps allows us to plan out our strategy and assures us that we have backup support whenever needed for navigation.

El Camino as a concept reminds me of both the Nakasendo Highway near Matsumoto in Japan and the Pilgrim Route (Santiago de Compostela) in Spain. There are many other similar long-distance foot trails (also the Pacific Trail) that provide a variety of challenges. My go-local determination allowed me to refrain from going to Spain or France for a destination walking trip. Since we were already in Japan last year, we took a side trip inland.

Despite the Christmas holiday frenzy, we grabbed the good weather forecast to make time for this trip. We discovered that the down time for business travel has slashed the price of hotel rooms–up to half off!!

There are plenty of delights and surprises, just around the corner from where you live! Take a look at two woody walking paths not far from El Camino along the way, and a sweet little surprise to literary friends.

No Carbon Footprint Series: Do You Know the Way from San Jose? (Day 1)

Most of you know the way along 101 or 280. But most likely not the way we are coming. This week we are walking from San Jose to San Francisco–a mere 48 miles over a few days’ time.

For the past few years we have gone out the door (literally) and walked to Napa, California and two ways to San Jose–south along the east side of the Bay and along the Peninsula. This time we are going in reverse order from San Jose Downtown to San Francisco north along El Camino Real.

Many of you know us as urban walkers, and who enjoy the “slow” version of transportation. We see the small businesses stringing El Camino strip malls. Their parking lots serve nail salons, ethnic fast food take-outs, specialty music shops, and mid-range companies (vs. start-ups), that all pay their rent, bills, and struggle to stay in the economy.

The first time I started this wacky way of walking, I was on a weekend trip from Hong Kong to Honolulu about to take my first professional architectural licensing exam. Perched in Manoa Heights at a friend’s home, I had made plans to meet my friend Downtown for lunch. When I missed the bus, I discovered that the next one would not be for another hour! I glanced down the hill and determined that it wouldn’t be too difficult to walk instead. A three-mile walk is a breeze today, but in those days NO ONE walked outside their houses. Especially in Honolulu.

I was used to being without a car in Hong Kong for seven years, so it seemed rather natural. The look on my friend’s face must have been priceless when I told her that I would be a little late and why. She thought I was…well, wacko. So that’s how I coined myself the crazy lady ever since.

Nevertheless, we are keeping up the crazy lady walks. We came to San Jose for a performance, and despite the holidays being around the corner, we had the time to walk back to San Francisco, so why not?

For a few starters, we passed the Old Frank Lloyd Wright Building and the Rosecrucian Museum on the way towards Santa Clara University.

The weather is clear and crisp (above frost level today). The lovely neighborhoods we walked through included tidy pre-war bungalows and 60’s ranch subdivisions, all proudly displaying their Christmas decorations and embarrassingly beautiful citrus trees reminiscent of the region’s agricultural legacy.

San Jose, Santa Clara, and Sunnyvale are in the heart of Silicon Valley and dead flat with paved sidewalks along the entire stretch to San Francisco. Walking 10 miles a day is a no brainer, with plenty of food and lodging establishments along the way.

Can you guess what we saw? Here’s the curtain call:

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A Decent December

Photos, above:
1. My figure drawing with model station in background (no photos of models allowed, sorry! Although one student brought a friend in to “observe” in order to overcome nudiephobia)
2. Friends and Support team of Figure Drawing
3. Violin repair shop in San Francisco that fixed my G string on the spot in a snap

Despite Finals Week and the need to wrap up three city college classes (Figure Drawing, German, and Script Writing), I am playing a bit of hookey and sneaking in some holiday madness.

It started with a conversation on FaceTime with Dresden friends Hanne and Jens, who sent me many pictures of Dresden’s famous Streislmarkts. It is one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany that sets a very festive mood for the holidays.

We chatted about old German traditions surrounding the Advent calendar, how to make Stollen and then how Germans and Americans celebrate the holidays.

Similarly, my German class had discussions about traditions. Our German teacher told us how children in her town would go around knocking doors on Xmas Eve to ask if Mary could stay and no one answers the door. She also taught us 10 Christmas songs, of which I only recognized three–Oh Tannenbaum, Silent Night and O Come All Ye Faithful!! Apparently there are many other lovely  hymns by German composers that have not been  translated into English. And Silent Night is never to be sung before Xmas Eve.

I’m going to attempt making Stollen for my German class Christmas party next Friday, with a few modifications approved by my German advisor (Hanne). I plan to use Brandy instead of rum and dried cranberries mixed with raisins and dates. I was also advised that fresh yeast is important!

I’ll let you know how the recipe downloaded from the Food Network goes. For those who want to try it, see here:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/stollen-recipe.html

I tweeted to Ruth Reichl a question about Stollen and she put me in touch with Luisa Weiss Classic German baking (for those of you interested in pursuing the real thing, look her up online). Keep your fingers crossed for me–I hope I don’t have a Catastrophe with bits of Stollen on the ceiling to clean up after this expedition!

Speaking of ceilings, here’s a shot under the dome of the original Emporium in San Francisco. I ran into Santa on a trip at Westfield Mall Downtown and put in my order for this year.

Before I head back to the salt mines, I want to wish Happy Birthdays this month to Melissa, Ruth and Sherry!!

Here’s a tribute to Leonard Cohen:https://youtu.be/dhsimHRscIE

And Happy Holidays to all!!

Marina Mirage

PAs I’ve been pumping through the San Francisco Marina twice a week to attend my figure drawing class at Fort Mason, I was suddenly struck by the austere beauty of the Bay before me.  The crystal clear weather, drowsy early morning awakening of humanity and activity, and occasional glances among shore pedestrians compelled me to stop my normal routine. As I got out of the car to take a few pictures, I saw a flock of birds heading westward toward the bridge.

I used the rhythmic pace of faint honks and flaps of wings to follow them, but soon the birds were gone. Then, as I panned the Bay to capture its thirsty lapping, I encountered another flock. One of the landmark islands in the Bay is named after them. The birds gather frequently at this time of year and head south for the winter. Apparently these birds and their flight pattern are common knowledge, and something that all San Franciscans (except me, who’s an East Bayer) know about. Can you detect what kind of birds these are? And the Spanish name of the island named after the birds?

You can check the birds of the bay here:

I think it’s time to follow them.

In Chinatown last week, I visited a Chinese Musician’s club rehearsal. The club is located just down the street from Mister Jiu’s on Spofford Alley between Clay and Washington Streets. The er-hu, two stringed instruments shown in the featured image above are hung in the room, just like roasted ducks waiting to be picked. I offered to film the six-piece band for a chance to hear some authentic, percussion-focused Chinese music and singing.

Turkey Day has just finished, and the Christmas holidays are around the corner. Hope all is well with everyone as we close out 2016.

Dream of the Real Opera

After being re-introduced to Chinese opera through Dream of the Red Chamber, I got curious about the Real McCoy. I researched the web and was surprised to find a local production the following weekend. In addition to the full classic opera “Princess Cheung Ping” (带 女 花)on Saturday, there were greatest hits the following day that included an excerpt of Dream of the Red Chamber. As additional incentive, the performances were a fund raiser for the Self-Help for the Elderly, a local non-profit organization providing senior services for the Chinese Community.

Both performances did not disappoint. I had forgotten how stunningly beautiful the costumes were, and I was warming up to the voices and makeup. Many of the gestures and movement are symbolic, such as horse hair wands used to indicate riding in the open; flags perched on the backs of men’s costumes to indicate high ranking military; and swirling troupes of female dancers to indicate time travel. They all reminded me how unique the Chinese opera form and style are.

I’m ready to delve back into my roots and appreciate the treasures of Chinese culture! While not a simple venture, I feel mature enough to tackle this task: 1. A familiarity with and love of Western opera;
2. Fond Memories of going to the Chinese Opera with my mother;
3. The recent production by Bright Sheng and Henry David Hwang for the SF Opera makes me question how authentically and successfully they were able to convert and interpret a Chinese classic for Western eyes and ears.

More and more Western and Asian blends of culture are coming. With the rise of Chinese standard of living, an unquestioning acceptance of Western art forms, and a thirst for new, modern productions by both sides, this is only the tip of the iceberg. I look forward to this spawning of innovative work and talent.

Please enjoy the colorful array of scenes and Chinese opera performers from the two-day marathon below:

On Being a Full Time Student (Again, for no particular reason)

After traveling around the world three times in three years, I finally settled down and organized my schedule to take classes at San Francisco’s local city college (CCSF). It’s a fantastic institution and alternative for students transitioning from high school to the university, working and attending school at the same time, and for those looking to enhance their lives.

I fall into the last category, but as a full time student taking four courses (two film classes, one figure drawing, and my beloved German), I can definitely re-relate to the plight of students. I had forgotten about the big black cloud that descends upon your Life as a Student. After finally shedding it the first time a long time ago, I can’t say this was a pleasant reminder. It felt as if I had lost 50 lbs, only to become a blimp again.

I have more thoughts and comments about being a full time student, but first some visuals and good news: the instructor and my figure drawing class are fantastic–inspiring, supportive and a great group of students. Some visuals of my instructor, a working artist with his own studio, and our first pin up critiques and display of our work:

The bad news is that many of the facilities at the Ocean campus are in dire need of repair. CCSF has approximately 10 sites throughout the city and bonds to fund the improvements are on the ballot. The bond measure is likely to pass, despite the financial fiasco and mismanagement at CCSF that has jeopardized its accreditation. Reviewers were assessing the latest efforts to rectify the problems. And the master plan process is underway. It might help to rectify some egregious and offensive facilities that students should not have to endure.

This past weekend was one of four Open Studios throughout October. Artists’ studios and their work are on display in many San Francisco neighborhoods. It was my first foray into the local artist community. Like Berlin, this city is very encouraging and inviting for the artistic community to thrive and work in the city (despite the high rent!).

Finally, for opera friends here’s another clip from this month:

Curtain call for “The Makropolous Affair”, a SF opera production by Janecek about a woman who lived for 300 years to regret doing that. All her friends were gone and it really wasn’t worth the pain and agony of sustaining life. A good reminder for all of us about our mortality and to make use of it while you can!

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For those wondering, my 2017 travel plans are underway. You’ll be hearing more about them as they become finalized. Stay tuned…