My inaugural trip of 2024 is a transcontinental train trip from Sydney to Perth, Australia. The Indian Pacific Journey by Rail takes 3 nights and 4 days and travels through vast stretches of the Australian outback, wheat fields and coal mining country.

I compare this to the Trans Siberian trip I took in 2017-18 (Beijing to Moscow 2017 followed by the Beijing to Vladivostok segment in 2018). While the Russian trips each took 7 days and 3 days respectively this Australian journey takes only 4 days.

The Trans Siberian required a leg due north through Ulan Bator in Mongolia to Irkutsk and Lake Baikal, accounting for the additional time. East-West Travel for both the TransContinental in Australia and Russia are similar in distance, dreariness and slowness. My lifelong love of trains compelled me to bank this journey after a two-week visit to New Zealand.

Australian Landscapes

No highrises, no towns, no people. Just flat horizontal images pass by, miles to the horizon line. Initially and intermittently, iron-rich clayey terra cotta soil seeps under the sage-blue brush, sometimes in curious circular colonies. Dry yellow-brown soil harvesting hay and wheat in the middle of the country give way to more lush outback, with taller trees that oscillate with the wind.

In some ways, the changing patterns of movement are the appeal to me. The pace and scenery are therapeutically comforting and a time to reflect.

Run-down coal mining buildings occasionally appear. We get excited seeing a bulldozer and ponder how it got to its place in the wilderness. No signs of humanity ANYWHERE. While mining is alive and well in Australia, the activities along the rail line seem to reflect the aging industry from a by-gone era.

Two trivia facts: the longest stretch of continual road is in this part of Australia and can be seen from outer space. And the width of Australia is the widest country in the world (over my guess of Russia) and wider than the moon’s diameter.

Wheat fields in Australia!?! Like America’s breadbasket, Australia produces more wheat and hay than what its countrymen consume. So China and other Asian countries are the benefactors of these vast food and feed enterprises.

Our quick 20-minute pitstop in Cook provided the most cinematic opportunity, where the abandoned town left a ghostly reminder of by-gone efforts to settle and make roots.

Accommodations

Compared with the Trans Siberian, accommodations in a single cabin are luxurious. While old and outdated, the design of the carriage was well thought out and the quality has been maintained.

What differentiates the Australian Railway system with that in Russia was the food service. The Chinese served the east-west direction, and the Russians the west-east direction of the line. Both were rudimentary, if not non-existent. No one attended the dining car.

The food service on the Indian Pacific was superior, with an extensive wine list and well prepared meals. The dining car buzzed with activities and opportunities to meet other travelers. The host seated individuals, couples, and parties of four as groups arrived. Both the food service and cabin staff have been amazingly hospitable, kind and helpful.

Yes, intermittent internet access is frustrating. Time to throw the phone out the window and try living life as a normal person. What I do see is the difference between these two transcontinental trips eight years apart. Except for frantic postings at station stops across Russia where I was able to get off, I barely remember any need to check my phone when there was no service to speak of.

Despite intermittent service, the compulsion to check is relentless and uncontrollable. I am only reminded by a handful of Aussie matrons who could have cared less about flickering internet traffic noise.

Excursions

Although I had no idea where the planned excursions were, it didn’t matter. Two of the three planned activities were unavailable.

The first off-train experience to the mining town of Broken Hill was cancelled due to delays from freight traffic the night before. And a flood at the site of the final night out in Rawlings required a cancellation of a dinner under the stars.

A seven-hour day trip to Australia’s famous Barossa Wine Valley allowed us to set foot on land midway. The Sepplefeld Winery we visited was started by German Salesian immigrants in the 1820’s. Their entourage arrived in Australia with 13 workers and the wealthy couple subsequently had 13 children to carry on the family business.

After a tour of the barreling room describing the wine making process, we were treated to an elaborate three-course meal with wine pairings. The dessert included a locally made port. Like restrictions on the use of “champagne”, the term “port” cannot be used as a wine designation. “Fortified wine” is used instead to identify wines enhanced with brandy or other alcoholic liquor.

The 7 hour journey was disappointing for the time invested, as an inordinate amount of time was devoted to marketing and shopping. More time could have been devoted to the wines produced.

Sydney–the start of the journey

Attached photos describe the start of my journey in beautiful, dappled tree-laden Downtown Sydney and a quick walk to Sydney Harbor..

Perth-end destination to follow

I hope you have enjoyed the account of this seldom traveled journey through Australia. Despite a few drawbacks, I recommend sturdy travelers to take it! I always thought of Perth as the edge of the world and was informed that it is only five hours from Singapore. That gave me a new perspective of the world! Please let me know if you have any questions or comments.