Perth appears to be the last major urban vestige of the world on a standard two-dimensional global map. As mentioned previously, I was reminded that it’s only five hours from Singapore. Australia is to us, a corner of the world, when it isn’t. Being here helps me to undo that bias.
The 35 degree heat, long sun-lit days from 5am to past 10pm and chokingly clear air are other mental adjustments. A brisk wind returns evenings to manageable temperatures. It reminds me of the hours when fog rolls into San Francisco around 3:30 in the afternoons.
After four days in transit observing the Australian landscape with passive wonder, I am now actively challenged to interactwith the environment and people. My first adventure was a one-hour side trip by train to Fremantle, a cozy little town on the coast of Western Australia.
Fremantle Prison
Known as the Mound, the octagonal building constructed in 1830 served as an outlook as well as the gallows for misbehaved convicts.
This prison preceded the larger Fremantle prison constructed in 1850.
Fremantle offers an opportunity to escape the sprawling dreariness of Perth. The streets have a neighborhood feel with quaint shops, galleries and cafes.
Architect’s Studio in Fremantle
I wandered into a gallery and ended up purchasing an Aboriginal work. I was captivated by the history and subject matter of the artists represented in the gallery. The gallery manager gave me an unrushed introduction to Aboriginal women artists.
I took a break after a long walk in the seering heat for outdoor seating at Pasta Addiction. I also asked if I could charge my phone there. The more you use your blue dot on the phone, the faster you deplete its battery. On top of the 35 degree heat, I wondered if my remote brain wasn’t going to explode!
Perth Art Gallery
I’m not sure what the difference between an art gallery and a museum, but this gallery was monumental. The exhibitions of Aboriginal art were commendable, but I’m not sure the scale of the building warranted being built. The donors must have place a high value on the lasting nature of art, or it would not exist.
Advised by a local Perther from the transcontinental rail journey, I visited the Kings Garden and the Australian Botanical Garden in Perth. It is larger in size than Central Park! A lovely crystal clear day for enjoying the serenity of the park and its harbor views, despite a gaggle of chirpy birds in the trees!
A symphony of birds at mid day in King’s Park
My fellow traveler from Perth described the wildflowers that can be enjoyed at the Botanical Garden. Unfortunately, the peak period has passed, since we are in an alternate universe. The late spring period had the best display, where the flowers can be seen all over Perth. There were only a few to be found at the garden by time I arrived, but I’m sure they would have been magnificent in this beautiful seaside setting.
Perth’s urban environment felt very sprawling and left alot to be desired from the walkability standpoint. There are still vestiges of Australia’s colonial past to remind everyone, tucked in between the boom days of the seventies and modern nondescript high-rises. Huge blocks of high rises and bad low to midrise commercial buildings look half abandoned.
Huge bus and transit terminals seem so big and clustered together it’s difficult to find your way around. I did manage to catch a free bus to the park that seemed to loop around in numerous directions before reaching its final destination. I haven’t been able to crack the bus system yet. I must be losing the killer instinct or wearing down from too many years of being an old dog learning new tricks. Maybe my trip to Freemantle, about an hour away this morning, will prove to be a smooth and seamless experience.
Food in general in Australia has been innovative and tasty. In Perth, the hotel area where I am staying is laden with alot of bad ethnic fast food shops, from shawarma to Korean bbq to Indian to Chinese. You name it, they are here.
I did venture into a Chinese bakery that did seem to speak to outside the box thinking. They expanded their repertoire to include pork floss buns, salad trimmings, and meat mixed in pastry combinations. I indulged in a mini sesame rice ball and hors-d’oeurvre sized lo por being with cha sis inside.
Not really my thing, but the variety was impressive
After a few more days in the Perth area, I will be heading back to Sydney for a week before returning to San Francisco. Stay tuned!
My inaugural trip of 2024 is a transcontinental train trip from Sydney to Perth, Australia. The Indian Pacific Journey by Rail takes 3 nightsand 4 days and travels through vast stretches of the Australian outback, wheat fields and coal mining country.
I compare this to the Trans Siberian trip I took in 2017-18 (Beijing to Moscow 2017 followed by the Beijing to Vladivostok segment in 2018). While the Russian trips each took 7 days and 3 days respectively this Australian journey takes only 4 days.
The Trans Siberian required a leg due north through Ulan Bator in Mongolia to Irkutsk and Lake Baikal, accounting for the additional time. East-West Travel for both the TransContinental in Australia and Russia are similar in distance, dreariness and slowness. My lifelong love of trains compelled me to bank this journey after a two-week visit to New Zealand.
Australian Landscapes
No highrises, no towns, no people. Just flat horizontal images pass by, miles to the horizon line. Initially and intermittently, iron-rich clayey terra cotta soil seeps under the sage-blue brush, sometimes in curious circular colonies. Dry yellow-brown soil harvesting hay and wheat in the middle of the country give way to more lush outback, with taller trees that oscillate with the wind.
Spartan landscape in the eastern side of the South Australian Outback
In some ways, the changing patterns of movement are the appeal to me. The pace and scenery are therapeutically comforting and a time to reflect.
Run-down coal mining buildings occasionally appear. We get excited seeing a bulldozer and ponder how it got to its place in the wilderness.No signs of humanity ANYWHERE. While mining is alive and well in Australia, the activities along the rail line seem to reflect the aging industry from a by-gone era.
Two trivia facts: the longest stretch of continual road is in this part of Australia and can be seen from outer space. And the width of Australia is the widest country in the world (over my guess of Russia) and wider than the moon’s diameter.
Wheat fields in Australia!?! Like America’s breadbasket, Australia produces more wheat and hay than what its countrymen consume. So China and other Asian countries are the benefactors of these vast food and feed enterprises.
Denser growth in the western half of the Southern Australia outback
Our quick 20-minute pitstop in Cook provided the most cinematic opportunity, where the abandoned town left a ghostly reminder of by-gone efforts to settle and make roots.
Accommodations
Compared with the Trans Siberian, accommodations in a single cabin are luxurious. While old and outdated, the design of the carriage was well thought out and the quality has been maintained.
What differentiates the Australian Railway system with that in Russia was the food service. The Chinese served the east-west direction, and the Russians the west-east direction of the line. Both were rudimentary, if not non-existent. No one attended the dining car.
The food service on the Indian Pacific was superior, with an extensive wine list and well prepared meals. The dining car buzzed with activities and opportunities to meet other travelers. The host seated individuals, couples, and parties of four as groups arrived. Both the food service and cabin staff have been amazingly hospitable, kind and helpful.
Yes, intermittent internet access is frustrating. Time to throw the phone out the window and try living life as a normal person. What I do see is the difference between these two transcontinental trips eight years apart. Except for frantic postings at station stops across Russia where I was able to get off, I barely remember any need to check my phone when there was no service to speak of.
Despite intermittent service, the compulsion to check is relentless and uncontrollable. I am only reminded by a handful of Aussie matrons who could have cared less about flickering internet traffic noise.
Excursions
Although I had no idea where the planned excursions were, it didn’t matter. Two of the three planned activities were unavailable.
The first off-train experience to the mining town of Broken Hill was cancelled due to delays from freight traffic the night before. And a flood at the site of the final night out in Rawlings required a cancellation of a dinner under the stars.
A seven-hour day trip to Australia’s famous Barossa Wine Valley allowed us to set foot on land midway. The Sepplefeld Winery we visited was started by German Salesian immigrants in the 1820’s. Their entourage arrived in Australia with 13 workers and the wealthy couple subsequently had 13 children to carry on the family business.
Glimpse of vineyards
After a tour of the barreling room describing the wine making process, we were treated to an elaborate three-course meal with wine pairings. The dessert included a locally made port. Like restrictions on the use of “champagne”, the term “port” cannot be used as a wine designation. “Fortified wine” is used instead to identify wines enhanced with brandy or other alcoholic liquor.
The 7 hour journey was disappointing for the time invested, as an inordinate amount of time was devoted to marketing and shopping. More time could have been devoted to the wines produced.
Diagram of wine productionTable setting with 3 wines and appetizers
Sydney–the start of the journey
Attached photos describe the start of my journey in beautiful, dappled tree-laden Downtown Sydney and a quick walk to Sydney Harbor..
A panoramic view of Sydney Harbor and Opera House, with a commentary on the indiginous people of Australia
Perth-end destination to follow
I hope you have enjoyed the account of this seldom traveled journey through Australia. Despite a few drawbacks, I recommend sturdy travelers to take it! I always thought of Perth as the edge of the world and was informed that it is only five hours from Singapore. That gave me a new perspective of the world! Please let me know if you have any questions or comments.
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