I’m taking my annual pilgrimage to Germany, this time without plans to take any German language classes. Instead, I’m joining a free weekend Sketchfest in Berlin, a side trip to Leipzig for opera and concerts, and more of the same in Hamburg.
Descent into DC
A long layover on the way to Berlin gave me an opportunity to visit the Capitol Mall with plenty of time. It was reassuring to know that the Metro is finally, after over 50 years, being used as intended. In the early days, it was a white elephant and far too ahead of its time. The waffled concrete stations have held up well and are a signature system in terms of durability and aesthetic longevity.





I had never noticed so many flags speckled throughout the capitol previously. Despite the dour circumstances of recent elections, seeing these iconic symbols restored some of my faith in American democracy.


The beauty and wealth of the nation was clearly evident throughout the mall. Wide vistas, free national museums of every imaginable persuasion and the lush landscaping afforded by the hot and humid South all contributed to this exciting discovery.





Buildings seem to boast their well-kept grounds and renovated facelifts. The historic Smithsonian sandstone palace, closed for renovation, contrasted with nearby giant modernistic office buildings, polished and sparkling.
A day-long, single purpose journey didn’t give me a proper perspective on the real life and times of Washington, DC. I had seen some of that on previous trips. Instead, my goal for the day was to tackle two museums on the mall as quickly and effortlessly as possible.
The donut-shaped Hirschhorn Art Museum reminded me how awkward flat paintings look in a building with curved walls. Wall segments managed to divided spaces successfully, however. An exhibition by women was an unexpected find.
Every exhibition has a story to tell. In this case, it focused on the male-dominated control of the art we see in museums. An overwhelming proportion of artistic work is produced by men and funded by men. The manifesto by Guerrilla Girls made the message very clear. In response, the Hirschhorn has committed to rectifying this disparity by increasing works and exhibitions by women artists. Two of the pieces I particularly enjoyed are represented below.

glimmering piece


woman’s body

The Natural History Museum was a first timer for me. It wasn’t until I marveled over exhibitions in London and Berlin that I realized our own garden variety is no slouch. Great displays on man’s emergence from the ocean and evolution from other primates were well communicated in that very down-to-earth American style of gee-gosh.



I splurged and used award miles for my first Polaris flight transatlantic from DC to Berlin. It lasted just short of eight hours and was enough time to fully appreciate the fully reclining cocoons.
Prenzlauer Berg in Berlin, Germany
After an early morning arrival, I headed to my AirBNB in the convenient Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood in Northeast Central Berlin. This district captures young thriving interests in sustainable, gluten-free, organic, and S-L-O-W living. Shops, cafes, and services are directed to these new ventures.



under 20 euros

What makes Berlin so fascinating and intense, as in other European cities, is the integration of history within modern living.





Here, the water tower, a local church with a huge slate steeple, and the closely guarded Jewish synagogue provide history and context for new developments in Prenzlauerberg. I stopped to ponder the brass plates inscribed on one of the cobbled streets. The tragic story as many others was told: a family of five, including a mother, her two grown children, and a young granddaughter all met the same fate.
Coming up: Sketching in Berlin with 1000 other participants
















